How much is an ungraded Kucherov Young Guns card worth these days??
Search eBay Sales for Sports Cards, Memorabilia and More | 130 PointHow much is an ungraded Kucherov Young Guns card worth these days??
Yeah, work on it...actually the break guys shots look like crap too, but they have no choice since they have to open and then move on quickly. If you're making a video to showcase cards you know you're going to feature in your shoot, you can get a much higher quality than those guys and not for a ton of money either. It's all about lighting...and by that I don't just mean your light source but how you manage it (with blockers and reflectors).
You sent me my first Ice Hockey cards by mail after the kings first cup. You sent them all the way to Australia. Thankyou again
Am I the only person who decided to open boxes of Extended Series? This is 4 boxes worth minus the regular inserts/21 YGs that went towards my set. It took UD long enough to realize no one cares for the inserts they keep putting into Series 1/Series 2.
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I picked up the Sorokin on eBay the other day for $5 cheaper then everywhere else. I’m a bigger fan of the Late 90s reprints honestly.I love that 05-06 retro Kaliyev!
Both record sales for the McDavid and Gretzky cards in these grades
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The boom is still on imo. I've noticed with my sales certain cards are falling off. But others keep going up. BGS cards aren't nearly as popular as psa cards. It's at the point where psa 9s have almost caught up to BGS 9.5s for modern cards.
There also seems to be almost no demand for basic inserts. There were a bunch of set builders who entered the market at the beginning of the boom. That's gone.
Both record sales for the McDavid and Gretzky cards in these grades
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The problem with ice is that all the good hits are such long shots. I entered a bunch of group breaks and hit a Tkachuk fairly cheaply. Calgary was still very cheap at that point. But to chase the Marner or Matthews that year was crazy expensive, even in the breaks.Regarding the Ovechkin UD Ice: I remember in 2006-07 (the year after) being convinced by the local dealer to buy boxes of UD Ice, as it was only $100 for a box (compared to whatever UD base was going for, like $120 or something I guess), and that the Ice rookies were tiered, and the Ovechkin and Crosby cards were selling as much as their Cup rookies (which was true, at the time). I now have nearly 10 full sets of 2005-06 UD Ice base, several rookie cards of nobodies numbered out of 2999, and I think the best card I ended up getting was RJ Umberger, which was only Tier 3 (numbered out of 1999; Tier 2 was 999; Tier 1 99).
The boom is still on imo. I've noticed with my sales certain cards are falling off. But others keep going up. BGS cards aren't nearly as popular as psa cards. It's at the point where psa 9s have almost caught up to BGS 9.5s for modern cards.
There also seems to be almost no demand for basic inserts. There were a bunch of set builders who entered the market at the beginning of the boom. That's gone.
I think 19/20 is underrated. Pretty deep rookie group. Can be found reasonably priced. Anything from 2013 to 2016/2017 will have big rookies, but will cost significantly more.Curious as to what people think the best year to buy boxes of. Been thinking about getting back into collecting after many years.
I opened a blaster box of Finnish cards from this past season.
This is extremely simple. Thanks to Beckett Grading Services, we know the five primary attributes used to grade a card.
- Centering: Centering is basically the width of the border. Ideally, the border sizing should be equal on the left, right, top and bottom. Sometimes judging the centering won't be as simple as looking for equal spaced borders. The bottom line is that the card should feel balanced. If a card appears lopsided, this means the centering is off.
- Corners: This is arguably the most important and most scrutinized of the grading attributes. A card with four sharp corners can alleviate other concerns, especially on older cards. Study all four corners looking at the front of the card first, then look at the back of the card. This is the best way to double-check. If a corner shows imperfections on both sides, it's not your eyes playing tricks on you. Sometimes the ink, foil or other factors can create the illusion of a weak corner, so always be sure to check the back. If a corner or two is an eyesore to look at, your probably looking at a card that will grade under 8.5. Slight corner imperfections, such as barely visible white might be the difference between a BGS 9 and a BGS 9.5, but can also result in no change.
- Edges: The four edges of a card are important, as well. Some brands are notoriously terrible with edges, especially cards with dark or black borders. At the same time, less is expected from these, so lower your expectations. Graders also look at the back for this, too. Edges should be sharp and the color should be constant. Imperfect edges have dings, dents or subtle discolorations. As with corners, barely visible white isn't the end of the world.
- Surface: Surface is the condition of the cardboard as a whole. With glossy cards such as Bowman Chrome, scratches on the surface can be an issue, as well as faded autographs. In addition, cards made with foil stock are prone to small pieces of foil coming off, leaving white specks on the card. With older cards, the main concern is creases and moisture damage. Many 1980s cards suffer from ink smearing and stamp marks that happen when the card goes through a print press. Many times a crease is hard to notice at first, as the picture on a card can hide one very well.
- Autographs: The autograph grade has nothing to do with the grade given to the card itself. If the ink isn't smeared and the autograph isn't faded, it will normally be a 10. All graded autographs must be "out of pack" autos (not hand-signed or in-person). It is very easy to "eye grade" an autograph.