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OT: Cars

Boris Zubov said:
What I've learned is there is a ton of trial & error involved. The type of clear you're working on will determine the product choices. Hard paints need aggressive polishes & vice versa.

What kind of machine are you using?
Click to expand...
I use a Harbor Freight Random Orbit Variable Speed. I'm leaning towards using the product and pad in this video.
 
I just ordered the CarPro Ultracut and the Lake Country HDO Blue Pad. I have a lot of Meguiars products and other color Lake Country pads. Worth a shot for $45.
 
NickyFotiu said:
I use a Harbor Freight Random Orbit Variable Speed. I'm leaning towards using the product and pad in this video.
Click to expand...

That video is misleading & not a good process to follow, IMO. What he calls 90% defect free seems generous & I guarantee you'd be unhappy with those results on a black car.

You really want to work in smaller sections than what he was doing. Rushing will lead to poor results. 18 inches square is a good rule of thumb. I've never worked with a HF machine, so I'm unclear of how much torque they have. I have Flex forced rotation polisher which has basically eliminated my need for a Rotary Polisher because of the torque it possesses. I'm willing to bet your HF polisher will fall short of that Rupes polisher in that video, which means you might need to buy a more aggressive pad. Also, he's working on a blurple (misspelled intentionally) colored car which will hide light scratches & spiderwebs way better than black. You're going to need a soft final finish pad & a different product to jewel the paint with if you want it perfectly scratch free.

I'm unfamiliar with CarPro products, I tend to stick with Menzerna. I've tried many other brands, including Sonax which I was un-impressed with. Meguiars & Mothers are store brands that should be left to Dad's waxing their SUVs on the weekends. The most versatile polish I've used is by a brand you've probably never heard of. Clearcoat Solutions. Here's a link to their polish that can take up to 600 grit scratches out ...

csishine.com

CSI 62-203-Q Ceram-X Car Polish (Quart) Single Product Polish (SPP)

Best automotive Single Product Polish (SPP) system (Quart) can remove sanding marks and finish to swirl-free shine without the need for multiple compounds and polishes. Best Car Polish, detail spray, detail wax, automotive easy clean up polish, waterless wash, best car wax
csishine.com csishine.com

I wouldn't recommend doing that regularly, but if you've ever left 1000 grit or coarser marks behind when cutting new paint, it comes in very handy. It was developed for hard ceramic german paints & is versatile enough for 99% of correction uses. I don't use this to final finish black, but I'm betting I could if I tried. I still like Menzerna 3800 for that job.
 
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Boris Zubov said:
That video is misleading & not a good process to follow, IMO. What he calls 90% defect free seems generous & I guarantee you'd be unhappy with those results on a black car.

You really want to work in smaller sections than what he was doing. Rushing will lead to poor results. 18 inches square is a good rule of thumb. I've never worked with a HF machine, so I'm unclear of how much torque they have. I have Flex forced rotation polisher which has basically eliminated my need for a Rotary Polisher because of the torque it possesses. I'm willing to bet your HF polisher will fall short of that Rupes polisher in that video, which means you might need to buy a more aggressive pad. Also, he's working on a blurple (misspelled intentionally) colored car which will hide light scratches & spiderwebs way better than black. You're going to need a soft final final pad & a different product to jewel the paint with if you want it perfectly scratch free.

I'm unfamiliar with CarPro products, I tend to stick with Menzerna. I've tried many other brands, including Sonax which I was un-impressed with. Meguiars & Mothers are store brands that should be left to Dad's waxing their SUVs on the weekends. The most versatile polish I've used is by a brand you've probably never heard of. Clearcoat Solutions. Here's a link to their polish that can take up to 600 grit scratches out ...

csishine.com

CSI 62-203-Q Ceram-X Car Polish (Quart) Single Product Polish (SPP)

Best automotive Single Product Polish (SPP) system (Quart) can remove sanding marks and finish to swirl-free shine without the need for multiple compounds and polishes. Best Car Polish, detail spray, detail wax, automotive easy clean up polish, waterless wash, best car wax
csishine.com csishine.com

I wouldn't recommend doing that regularly, but if you've ever left 1000 grit or coarser marks behind when cutting new paint, it comes in very handy. It was developed for hard ceramic german paints & is versatile enough for 99% of correction uses. I don't use this to final finish black, but I'm betting I could if I tried. I still like Menzerna 3800 for that job.
Click to expand...
Thanks for your help. I agree about working in a small area at a time. I used to use a Porter Cable Random and did not see any performance difference in the Harbor Freight. I'm not willing to spend $500 on the Rupes polisher. Too poor. Too cheap. My hood is not in great paint shape so I figure it is worth a shot with the UltraCut and Blue Pad. The Ultra Cut seems to have some good reviews on various boards. I would not use it on new paint. This is 17 year old paint. I have read some good things about Menzerna. I will look in to that more. Thanks for the tip. When I was younger I used mostly 3M products with pretty good results.
 
NickyFotiu said:
Thanks for your help. I agree about working in a small area at a time. I used to use a Porter Cable Random and did not see any performance difference in the Harbor Freight. I'm not willing to spend $500 on the Rupes polisher. Too poor. Too cheap. My hood is not in great paint shape so I figure it is worth a shot with the UltraCut and Blue Pad. The Ultra Cut seems to have some good reviews on various boards. I would not use it on new paint. This is 17 year old paint. I have read some good things about Menzerna. I will look in to that more. Thanks for the tip. When I was younger I used mostly 3M products with pretty good results.
Click to expand...
Goes back to what I said originally....it's all about trial & error. Some stuff that worked very well on my GFs Subaru didn't work for shit on my VW. Sometimes you just have to go for it & see what you get. The trick is to try a small test spot & go from there.

Porter Cable machines are just glorified HF bullshit so it doesn't surprise me you didn't see a difference...more weekend warrior stuff, IMO. You'll never be able to do any serious paint correction with a PC machine.

My buddy bought this, which is a copy of my Flex forced rotation machine...

www.ebay.com

110v 8mm Throw 1200w Forced Rotation Polisher Good as Flex xc 3401 vrg Polisher | eBay

High quality 5.5" forced rotation dual actioin random orbital DA polisher real CONSTANT speed and Soft start FLEX xc 3401 vrg type. This orbital polishing action is what makes the polisher a safe polisher to use and very effective.
www.ebay.com

I gave it a side by side test next to mine & I was really f***ing impressed. I wish I would have found this before spending $500 on my Flex. It will change your life if you do a bunch of detailing.
 
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Boris Zubov said:
Goes back to what I said originally....it's all about trial & error. Some stuff I've used on my GFs subaru didn't work for shit on my VW. Sometimes you just have to go for it & see what you get. The trick is to try a small test spot & go from there.

Porter Cable machines are just glorified HF bullshit so it doesn't surprise me you didn't see a differnce...more weekend warrior stuff, IMO. You'll never be able to do any serious paint correction with a PC machine.

My buddy bought this, which is a copy of my Flex forced rotation machine...

www.ebay.com

110v 8mm Throw 1200w Forced Rotation Polisher Good as Flex xc 3401 vrg Polisher | eBay

High quality 5.5" forced rotation dual actioin random orbital DA polisher real CONSTANT speed and Soft start FLEX xc 3401 vrg type. This orbital polishing action is what makes the polisher a safe polisher to use and very effective.
www.ebay.com

I gave it a side by side test next to mine & I was really f***ing impressed. I wish I would have found this before spending $500 on my Flex. It will change your life if you do a bunch of detailing.
Click to expand...
I do not do a bunch of detailing. My cars are mostly garage queens but thanks for the link. At $180 it is something to consider where $500 is too much for me. I ordered a new car last week. I have to decide if I should spend another $5000 on paint correction and PPF or not. I really rather not for a car that will likely get 2000 miles a year on it.
 
NickyFotiu said:
I do not do a bunch of detailing. My cars are mostly garage queens but thanks for the link. At $180 it is something to consider where $500 is too much for me. I ordered a new car last week. I have to decide if I should spend another $5000 on paint correction and PPF or not. I really rather not for a car that will likely get 2000 miles a year on it.
Click to expand...
Why would you need to spend 5 grand on paint correction. You seem to be hands on, so you can do all your own work for a little investment in a decent machine, some pads, & a few bottles of polish.

Are you located in the north east...if so I could come by & show you what I do.
 
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Boris Zubov said:
Why would you need to spend 5 grand on paint correction. You seem to be hands on, so you can do all your own work for a little investment in a decent machine, some pads, & a few bottles of polish.

Are you located in the north east...if so I could come by & show you what I do.
Click to expand...
I moved from NY decades ago. Otherwise I would jump on your offer. I learn fast but always appreciate wisdom and experience. It sucks that dealers think new cars need paint correction and Ceramix as well as PPF. I think it would be around $2500 for each. I'm not sure if I want either on my new car. The car will not be here for months so I have some time to decide what is best. I'm in no hurry to spend another $5000. The car is a lot of money on its own.
 
NickyFotiu said:
I moved from NY decades ago. Otherwise I would jump on your offer. I learn fast but always appreciate wisdom and experience. It sucks that dealers think new cars need paint correction and Ceramix as well as PPF. I think it would be around $2500 for each. I'm not sure if I want either on my new car. The car will not be here for months so I have some time to decide what is best. I'm in no hurry to spend another $5000. The car is a lot of money on its own.
Click to expand...
Understood...but I'm not sure what PPF is? Is that some type of coating?

Also if I bought a new car that needed any type of paint correction, the dealer would be doing it gratis, or I wouldn't accept delivery.
 
Boris Zubov said:
Understood...but I'm not sure what PPF is? Is that some type of coating?

Also if I bought a new car that needed any type of paint correction, the dealer would be doing it gratis, or I wouldn't accept delivery.
Click to expand...
PPF is paint protection film. Its like a clear film that can protect against chips and crap from trees or birds.

Dealers do a detail to get the cars ready. I will go look at their detail department to see if they will do dumb things that add swirls.
 
Boris Zubov said:
That video is misleading & not a good process to follow, IMO. What he calls 90% defect free seems generous & I guarantee you'd be unhappy with those results on a black car.

You really want to work in smaller sections than what he was doing. Rushing will lead to poor results. 18 inches square is a good rule of thumb. I've never worked with a HF machine, so I'm unclear of how much torque they have. I have Flex forced rotation polisher which has basically eliminated my need for a Rotary Polisher because of the torque it possesses. I'm willing to bet your HF polisher will fall short of that Rupes polisher in that video, which means you might need to buy a more aggressive pad. Also, he's working on a blurple (misspelled intentionally) colored car which will hide light scratches & spiderwebs way better than black. You're going to need a soft final finish pad & a different product to jewel the paint with if you want it perfectly scratch free.

I'm unfamiliar with CarPro products, I tend to stick with Menzerna. I've tried many other brands, including Sonax which I was un-impressed with. Meguiars & Mothers are store brands that should be left to Dad's waxing their SUVs on the weekends. The most versatile polish I've used is by a brand you've probably never heard of. Clearcoat Solutions. Here's a link to their polish that can take up to 600 grit scratches out ...

csishine.com

CSI 62-203-Q Ceram-X Car Polish (Quart) Single Product Polish (SPP)

Best automotive Single Product Polish (SPP) system (Quart) can remove sanding marks and finish to swirl-free shine without the need for multiple compounds and polishes. Best Car Polish, detail spray, detail wax, automotive easy clean up polish, waterless wash, best car wax
csishine.com csishine.com

I wouldn't recommend doing that regularly, but if you've ever left 1000 grit or coarser marks behind when cutting new paint, it comes in very handy. It was developed for hard ceramic german paints & is versatile enough for 99% of correction uses. I don't use this to final finish black, but I'm betting I could if I tried. I still like Menzerna 3800 for that job.
Click to expand...
My black BMW paint is 17 years old. Have often hated the scratches on the hood that looked like either trees or a cat got it before I owned it. Got the Ultracut and Blue pad in mail today. Tried a small 1-2 foot section on hood where I could clearly see the scratches. First try it got all all but 2 scratches. Hit it again and it looks like it removed those 2 scratches as well. Directions say to use on a 4-5 speed with Random Orbital so that is what I used. I'm pleased. Will wash whole car tomorrow so I can do rest of the hood fenders and trunk. Cost me $45 for UltraCut and Blue Pad (not cheap) but I'm pleased. I did not use any polish. Just the Ultracut. After years getting just so so results with Meguiars compound and polish. Neighbor told me to use Meguiars Carnuba but I explained to him that will not correct the paint I have. Then he said that he uses Chemical guys cut and Chemical guys polish but I have read they are over rated. You may have said that as well. Anyway that is the news. I took a chance for $45 and I'm pretty pleased with the results. Lets see how it goes when I do the rest of the car but I can't imagine it will be any different.
 
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NickyFotiu said:
My black BMW paint is 17 years old. Have often hated the scratches on the hood that looked like either trees or a cat got it before I owned it. Got the Ultracut and Blue pad in mail today. Tried a small 1-2 foot section on hood where I could clearly see the scratches. First try it got all all but 2 scratches. Hit it again and it looks like it removed those 2 scratches as well. Directions say to use on a 4-5 speed with Random Orbital so that is what I used. I'm pleased. Will wash whole car tomorrow so I can do rest of the hood fenders and trunk. Cost me $45 for UltraCut and Blue Pad (not cheap) but I'm pleased. I did not use any polish. Just the Ultracut. After years getting just so so results with Meguiars compound and polish. Neighbor told me to use Meguiars Carnuba but I explained to him that will not correct the paint I have. Then he said that he uses Chemical guys cut and Chemical guys polish but I have read they are over rated. You may have said that as well. Anyway that is the news. I took a chance for $45 and I'm pretty pleased with the results. Lets see how it goes when I do the rest of the car but I can't imagine it will be any different.
Click to expand...
Glad you're happy with your results...not to burst your bubble, but have you taken the car out in the sun yet? Too many times I've been thrilled with my work only to take it out of the shop/garage realizing I had to go over a bunch of spots. Black especially will show everything in the sun, so before you move forward with the rest of it, it might be worth taking it outside.

I agree, Chemical Guys is crap for the most part, IMO....their purple Spray Detailer is the best I've used, but every other product I've tried from them has been a let down. Polishes, swirl removers, etc...none of them really did what they claimed they would & they all created a ton of dust. They've become another parts store brand like Meguiars, Mothers, etc.

Do you have a link to this Ultracut product? I'd like to give it a shot on my VW daily driver. It has very hard paint that doesn't like to correct very easily. I love trying new things...what the hell it's only money!
 
Boris Zubov said:
Thanks buddy. Good to see you around. You've been quiet recently.
Click to expand...

Appreciate that man, last couple years life has come at me like a goalie in warmup but all the players are shooting pucks at the same time (or so it appears to me)

Spending time in the garage wrenchin on my jalopies quiets my mind. (and my kids and buddies vehicles too! lol)

Cheers! 🍻
 
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Boris Zubov said:
Glad you're happy with your results...not to burst your bubble, but have you taken the car out in the sun yet? Too many times I've been thrilled with my work only to take it out of the shop/garage realizing I had to go over a bunch of spots. Black especially will show everything in the sun, so before you move forward with the rest of it, it might be worth taking it outside.

I agree, Chemical Guys is crap for the most part, IMO....their purple Spray Detailer is the best I've used, but every other product I've tried from them has been a let down. Polishes, swirl removers, etc...none of them really did what they claimed they would & they all created a ton of dust. They've become another parts store brand like Meguiars, Mothers, etc.

Do you have a link to this Ultracut product? I'd like to give it a shot on my VW daily driver. It has very hard paint that doesn't like to correct very easily. I love trying new things...what the hell it's only money!
Click to expand...
You are 100% right about black in the sun. Just took it out to wash and results were a little less. Here is the Ultracut link and also the Sonox that the other detailer reccomended. Please read the details on both. I don't want you buying on my say so.



You mentioned dust. The ultracut had minimal dust. Was very easy to use.
 
Unpredictable1 said:
Appreciate that man, last couple years life has come at me like a goalie in warmup but all the players are shooting pucks at the same time (or so it appears to me)

Spending time in the garage wrenchin on my jalopies quiets my mind. (and my kids and buddies vehicles too! lol)

Cheers! 🍻
Click to expand...
What jalopies do you have in the stable?
 
NickyFotiu said:
You are 100% right about black in the sun. Just took it out to wash and results were a little less. Here is the Ultracut link and also the Sonox that the other detailer reccomended. Please read the details on both. I don't want you buying on my say so.



You mentioned dust. The ultracut had minimal dust. Was very easy to use.
Click to expand...
Yeah, I mentioned previously that black is a different animal & requires additional steps. I use a specific product & an ultra fine pad, but depending on the type of paint you have on that Beamer, it's pretty much a crapshoot.

Don't sweat it, I'm not going to hold you responsible if I don't like a bottle of polish. I've used Sonax & wasn't impressed so I can cross them off the list. I'd like to try this ultracut. Low dust is always a good selling point.
 
Boris Zubov said:
Yeah, I mentioned previously that black is a different animal & requires additional steps. I use a specific product & an ultra fine pad, but depending on the type of paint you have on that Beamer, it's pretty much a crapshoot.

Don't sweat it, I'm not going to hold you responsible if I don't like a bottle of polish. I've used Sonax & wasn't impressed so I can cross them off the list. I'd like to try this ultracut. Low dust is always a good selling point.
Click to expand...
The lowdust and ease of use was a definite plus. Good luck with it. In the details it shows the grit level. Let me know how it goes. No more black cars for me.... Although I have said that 4 times before lol. My M Roadster has factory artic silver metalic paint that looks brand new at 25 years old. Super easy to clean. New car will be white. Ill probably get the hood, front bumper, mirrors and fenders covered with PPF.
 
Boris Zubov said:
Yeah, I mentioned previously that black is a different animal & requires additional steps. I use a specific product & an ultra fine pad, but depending on the type of paint you have on that Beamer, it's pretty much a crapshoot.

Don't sweat it, I'm not going to hold you responsible if I don't like a bottle of polish. I've used Sonax & wasn't impressed so I can cross them off the list. I'd like to try this ultracut. Low dust is always a good selling point.
Click to expand...
I just realized I may have sold my results short. The spot I did looked good in my garage and then looked good outside. Then when I brought it back in my garage I saw some scratches. It was the same garage light that looked good. an hour earlier. What I think happened is the scratches came in my car washing and or my shamois drying. I will hit that spot again with ultracut tomorrow. I think I need to get a blower or towel dry. Also get a clean wash mitt instead of my sponge.
 
Just did my whole hood and top of fenders with Ultracut with blue pad at 4.5 speed. Did the hood very fast. 2 passes in each direction. Just like the guy in the video. Looks very good. Not like brand new paint but a very large improvement and super easy to use. Much easier than many other products. Only downside for me so far is its more expensive than some products. I also realized tonight that it is my washing and drying that is causing the tiny scratches.
 
Went in garage to do trunk and rear fenders. Once again super quick and easy to work with. Was pleased with results but noticed 2 bird dropping etchings that had been there forever remained. I hit it with a second pass just on the bird dropping etchings. Happy to say they are both totally gone. Here is the Lake Country Blue Pad I have used with it at 4.5 speed.

Amazon.com

www.amazon.com
 
Sounds like you're getting good results. Here's a pro tip, do six slow passes in each direction in every 18 x 18 quadrant of the panel. Also turn the speed up to 5 on the first few passes, then lower it to 4 on the last couple.

It's very rare that you can achieve an almost perfect finish with one pad & one polish, so If you really want to get the best results possible, get yourself a superfine pad for the final finish.


The Ultracut is probably not designed to be a final finish, so you'll want a different product to get the best final results. Looks like this is Carpro's finishing polish...

Amazon.com

www.amazon.com

This will probably take your paint to a level you'll be thrilled with, but everything is a bit of trial & error. However, if the Ultracut is working well on your car, usually products from the same line will also work well.

Final tip of the night...That guy in that video is a bit of a clown...stop following his lead. The best detailing videos are done by Mike Phillips of Autogeek. He is one of the, if not the best in the business & really shows you how to achieve great results.
 
Boris Zubov said:
Sounds like you're getting good results. Here's a pro tip, do six slow passes in each direction in every 18 x 18 quadrant of the panel. Also turn the speed up to 5 on the first few passes, then lower it to 4 on the last couple.

It's very rare that you can achieve an almost perfect finish with one pad & one polish, so If you really want to get the best results possible, get yourself a superfine pad for the final finish.


The Ultracut is probably not designed to be a final finish, so you'll want a different product to get the best final results. Looks like this is Carpro's finishing polish...

Amazon.com

www.amazon.com

This will probably take your paint to a level you'll be thrilled with, but everything is a bit of trial & error. However, if the Ultracut is working well on your car, usually products from the same line will also work well.

Final tip of the night...That guy in that video is a bit of a clown...stop following his lead. The best detailing videos are done by Mike Phillips of Autogeek. He is one of the, if not the best in the business & really shows you how to achieve great results.
Click to expand...
Thanks for all the help. I have followed detailing to a small degree for decades but I'm sure you know a heck of a lot more. I will look in to those products. I already have the Lake Country Orange, Black and White pads but they are not the HDO pads. I do not follow that one guy (you called a clown) in that video. I have watched several videos recently but I have followed stuff on Autotopia going all the way back to around 2000. Only problem with some detailing boards is 10 people will give you 5-7 different opinions lol. :)
 
NickyFotiu said:
Thanks for all the help. I have followed detailing to a small degree for decades but I'm sure you know a heck of a lot more. I will look in to those products. I already have the Lake Country Orange, Black and White pads but they are not the HDO pads. I do not follow that one guy (you called a clown) in that video. I have watched several videos recently but I have followed stuff on Autotopia going all the way back to around 2000. Only problem with some detailing boards is 10 people will give you 5-7 different opinions lol. :)
Click to expand...
The reason you'll get so many opinions is two fold, as I said a lot of this can be trial & error & the bigger issue is that some products can do wonders on one car but not on another. Then there's the pad/product dilemma. Which one to use with which pad? it's a bit overwhelming, honestly...so the thing I tell guys is if you find something that works well for you, stick with it.

I got to the point that I would only have my cars painted with a specific clear coat from Axalta(Dupont) because I knew exactly how it would build on the surface, how easy it was to sand flat & how well it polished out. The products I used, including wet sand paper, buffing pads & polish, all stayed the same so I would have no surprises. Time is money & I didn't want to spin my wheels after all that work. I've had freshly painted clear coats that were a f***ing nightmare to sand or a nightmare to polish. It can make your life hell, believe me.
 
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