Equipment: STICKS - Buying Guide and Advice PART 3

[elnewby]

Like puckpilot said, it's not consistent unfortunately. You must also consider kickpoint, such that, for example, if you push down on equivalent tiered 75 flex Bauer Vapor (which has a low kick), a 75 flex Bauer Nexus (mid kick), and a 75 flex Bauer Supreme (mid-high kick), they will all feel different based on where the stick flexes. A low kick may feel stiffer than a mid because the stick loads below your bottom hand, whereas the mid kick loads at/around your bottom hand.

In terms of brands, companies have been playing around with their kickpoints pretty regularly for years such that it's tough to really say if a particular brand is 'stiffer' than another. Plus each brand usually has 2-3 families of sticks based around different kickpoints anyways, which brings it back to my original point above.



Yes, the Bauer SR 70 flex will be new for next season in their 2019 catalog, and only for the top-end models I believe.

This is only Bauer though.

Please provide more info on what sticks/lengths/kickpoints/amount cut etc. you've tried so far.

Thanks for your reply. I'm 5'8, 175. A few years ago I was using 65/67flex intermediates, specifically the first two 1N's, Ultra Tacks, HTX.I really liked it for shooting, but I also was breaking sticks quite often as I have gotten older/stronger. Someone I trust suggesting going up in flex. I jumped to the 77flex 1x, and an 80 flex GX(Was a Pro Stock that was already 57"). Typically I cut senior sticks down to 56.5", making it a little on the stiffer side for my preferences.I like it enough, but the perfectionist in me thinks that if I could get a stick in the mid 70's it would be ideal for me.

I got my hands on a few of the Bauer 70 flexes in my LHS today(Didn't know these existed, so I was intrigued). A quick flex test really got me thinking it would be about perfect for me after I cut it down.

My favorite sticks I’ve owned have been the 65flex Ultra Tacks and a 67flex original 1N.

 

[Meuracas]

So I bought a Sher-Wood ”The Ghost” Rekker GT150 on a whim at a local store (Finland) for ~100 EUR. I had seen the stick on sale in some stores/websites before, but never found any reviews or anything and Google searches return a handful of Finnish/Nordic online stores.

Just curious, does anyone know if this a Nordics only product? Any idea on how it compares against other sticks of the same tier and other Sher-Wood sticks? The store claimed this was originally a ~200 EUR ($227) stick.

I’ve played two practice games with it so far, feels alright but no significant weight difference with my other sticks which I thought at least used to be one of the advantage points of the Rekker line.

 

[AIREAYE]

Thanks for your reply. I'm 5'8, 175. A few years ago I was using 65/67flex intermediates, specifically the first two 1N's, Ultra Tacks, HTX.I really liked it for shooting, but I also was breaking sticks quite often as I have gotten older/stronger. Someone I trust suggesting going up in flex. I jumped to the 77flex 1x, and an 80 flex GX(Was a Pro Stock that was already 57"). Typically I cut senior sticks down to 56.5", making it a little on the stiffer side for my preferences.I like it enough, but the perfectionist in me thinks that if I could get a stick in the mid 70's it would be ideal for me.

I got my hands on a few of the Bauer 70 flexes in my LHS today(Didn't know these existed, so I was intrigued). A quick flex test really got me thinking it would be about perfect for me after I cut it down.

My favorite sticks I’ve owned have been the 65flex Ultra Tacks and a 67flex original 1N.

Right, 75 flex senior sticks are either the full regular 60", or some manufacturers offer their 75s in a shorter 59" or something. Intermediate 65-70 flexes are typically 57", so if you were to find an end result of a 70-75 flex after cutting to 56.5", this new Bauer offering sounds perfect!

I'm really eyeing a Bauer Vapor or Nexus in a SR 70 flex as well, because I think that would be right in my wheelhouse as I currently use intermediate 70 flex Warrior QRLs plus a 1" extension or so. I'd like to give high end Bauers another shot as I love their blades.

So I bought a Sher-Wood ”The Ghost” Rekker GT150 on a whim at a local store (Finland) for ~100 EUR. I had seen the stick on sale in some stores/websites before, but never found any reviews or anything and Google searches return a handful of Finnish/Nordic online stores.

Just curious, does anyone know if this a Nordics only product? Any idea on how it compares against other sticks of the same tier and other Sher-Wood sticks? The store claimed this was originally a ~200 EUR ($227) stick.

I’ve played two practice games with it so far, feels alright but no significant weight difference with my other sticks which I thought at least used to be one of the advantage points of the Rekker line.

Not sure where that stick sits in the line, but easiest way to tell with these 'Special Make Up' products in comparing to the regular line is in the regular price. If the regular price sits between two regular line models, chances are the base model is the lower of the two with some upgrades (i.e. blade core material, slightly lighter) from the models above it.

 

[elnewby]

Right, 75 flex senior sticks are either the full regular 60", or some manufacturers offer their 75s in a shorter 59" or something. Intermediate 65-70 flexes are typically 57", so if you were to find an end result of a 70-75 flex after cutting to 56.5", this new Bauer offering sounds perfect!

I'm really eyeing a Bauer Vapor or Nexus in a SR 70 flex as well, because I think that would be right in my wheelhouse as I currently use intermediate 70 flex Warrior QRLs plus a 1" extension or so. I'd like to give high end Bauers another shot as I love their blades.

I went ahead and ordered one from my LHS. Should have it after the new year! I'll update when I can. I've owned 2 Nexus in the past and really enjoyed them, looking forward to this one.

 

[Smirnov2Chistov]

I'm not sure if I asked before, but I need some clarification here in regards to sticks and how they are made nowadays.

I currently play, in my roller hockey and floor hockey leagues, I play with a short two piece stich-shaft combo. One of my teammates broke his one-piece True A6.0 and gave it to me because he knows I can swap the blade into the shaft. Few days later, I bring it to my local hockey shop, and the guy tells me that he cant put a blade because: "the way that sticks are made nowadays, you cant properly fit a blade on the one piece because the shaft starts to thin when it gets closer to the blade".

So I look at the shaft, and am thinking he's right after taking a look and analyzing it. But since I am really small, I assumed he would've had to cut it a lot shorter into the shaft to make the blade 'fit'. Could be just me, and I'm completely wrong in the process. Any suggestions?

To put it in a better perspective, my teammate is a large defense-man and uses this: A6.0 SBP | TRUE Hockey. He snapped the blade off, and I'm thinking about cutting it way down to where the R is. Is that a good spot for a blade to fit, or should I just trash the thing?

 

[BruinDust]

I'm not sure if I asked before, but I need some clarification here in regards to sticks and how they are made nowadays.

I currently play, in my roller hockey and floor hockey leagues, I play with a short two piece stich-shaft combo. One of my teammates broke his one-piece True A6.0 and gave it to me because he knows I can swap the blade into the shaft. Few days later, I bring it to my local hockey shop, and the guy tells me that he cant put a blade because: "the way that sticks are made nowadays, you cant properly fit a blade on the one piece because the shaft starts to thin when it gets closer to the blade".

So I look at the shaft, and am thinking he's right after taking a look and analyzing it. But since I am really small, I assumed he would've had to cut it a lot shorter into the shaft to make the blade 'fit'. Could be just me, and I'm completely wrong in the process. Any suggestions?

To put it in a better perspective, my teammate is a large defense-man and uses this: A6.0 SBP | TRUE Hockey. He snapped the blade off, and I'm thinking about cutting it way down to where the R is. Is that a good spot for a blade to fit, or should I just trash the thing?

I've considered doing this with my broken Trigger ASY and in my case it's not going to work unless I use a wooden blade and the customize the part of the blade that goes into the shaft so it fits into the tapered end of the shaft (and in this case asymmetrical). Even then I don't see it working all that well, and it's a lot of work and time to customize the blade to make it fit.

A True A6.0 (I have one as well) it would be easier to fit a customized wooden blade in as the taper is more uniformed on both sides, but still hardly worth the effort IMO. And if you want a graphite blade I don't see how it would work. You'd have to cut the shaft much to far up from the bottom to have a useable stick when your done as the taper starts fairly high up the shaft. You'd basically have to get past where the stick taper starts.

 

[Smirnov2Chistov]

A True A6.0 (I have one as well) it would be easier to fit a customized wooden blade in as the taper is more uniformed on both sides, but still hardly worth the effort IMO. And if you want a graphite blade I don't see how it would work. You'd have to cut the shaft much to far up from the bottom to have a useable stick when your done as the taper starts fairly high up the shaft. You'd basically have to get past where the stick taper starts.

So even if I cut it down, it's not really worth it? It would most likely just be used for floor hockey

 

[BruinDust]

So even if I cut it down, it's not really worth it? It would most likely just be used for floor hockey

Are you going to use a wood replacement blade or a graphite one?

 

[Filthy Dangles]

Well you have to flip the stick upside down right? At least that's how I've always done it. the butt end now becomes the bottom of the shaft where you insert the blade.

I guess you and the LHS guy are saying he has to cut too much off the (now) top of the stick because of the taper? What about adding an extension at the top of the shaft?

 

[BruinDust]

Well you have to flip the stick upside down right? At least that's how I've always done it. the butt end now becomes the bottom of the shaft where you insert the blade.

I guess you and the LHS guy are saying he has to cut too much off the (now) top of the stick because of the taper? What about adding an extension at the top of the shaft?

Messes with the kick-point doing it that way but for ball hockey it shouldn't matter very much.

 

[Filthy Dangles]

Messes with the kick-point doing it that way but for ball hockey it shouldn't matter very much.

Yep that's a good point, shafts are designed to flex at certain spots so flipping the stick will screw that up. but it's better than no stick.

I don't really know enough to give OP any other sound advice, but aren't there also tapered blades in addition to regular standard blades? Maybe if the OP cuts at the bottom of the shaft instead of flipping it upside down, he could fit a blade with a tapered hosel in there as opposed to a standard hosel blade?

 

[Smirnov2Chistov]

Are you going to use a wood replacement blade or a graphite one?

The shops around my area in Mass don't really have many blades for two-pieces, so I was going to try SidelineSwap or something. In my experience, especially with floor hockey, I find myself playing better with a two-piece and I can not figure out why.

Yep that's a good point, shafts are designed to flex at certain spots so flipping the stick will screw that up. but it's better than no stick.

I don't really know enough to give OP any other sound advice, but aren't there also tapered blades in addition to regular standard blades? Maybe if the OP cuts at the bottom of the shaft instead of flipping it upside down, he could fit a blade with a tapered hosel in there as opposed to a standard hosel blade?

Wouldn't reversing the shaft the opposite way cause problems with the flex? (In my case, switching the top shaft to become the bottom and so forth)

 

[Filthy Dangles]

The shops around my area in Mass don't really have many blades for two-pieces, so I was going to try SidelineSwap or something. In my experience, especially with floor hockey, I find myself playing better with a two-piece and I can not figure out why.

Wouldn't reversing the shaft the opposite way cause problems with the flex? (In my case, switching the top shaft to become the bottom and so forth)

Yes it likely will.

I'd try asking on ModSquadHockey and/or reddit's r/hockeyplayers for your issue too. Some pretty knowledgable people there.

 

[puckpilot]

So even if I cut it down, it's not really worth it? It would most likely just be used for floor hockey

If you cut the shaft down, it's going to mess with the flex profile and balance point regardless. It's going to change that mid/mid-low kick point to more towards being a low kick.

As for if it's worth your time or not, what have you got to lose giving it a try? If the shaft breaks, it breaks. You can still salvage the blade. If you're not shooting a puck, the stick doesn't experience the same type of stress as ice hockey.

 

[BruinDust]

If you cut the shaft down, it's going to mess with the flex profile and balance point regardless. It's going to change that mid/mid-low kick point to more towards being a low kick.

As for if it's worth your time or not, what have you got to lose giving it a try? If the shaft breaks, it breaks. You can still salvage the blade. If you're not shooting a puck, the stick doesn't experience the same type of stress as ice hockey.

If he's using a wooden blade and going to customize the end piece to fit in the tapered shaft, well if it doesn't work he's out a $20+ dollar blade as it won't be usable for a normal two-piece application once he shaves enough wood off the end piece to make it fit.

If he's using a graphite blade, he won't be able to customize the end piece to remove the excess width to make it fit. So his option then is to cut the shaft up to where the tapered portion begins. Which on my A.6.0 is roughly about where the "T" is. Well my stick is 57 inches and cutting is off at that point I'm left with roughly half a stick. What good is a 40 inch stick?

His best bet is to simply insert the blade (wood or graphite) into the butt-end of the shaft, sure it will mess up the kick-point but for ball hockey it shouldn't be that big of a deal. At least that method will work to a degree and no time or money is wasted.

 

[AIREAYE]

You guys seemed to have fleshed out the issue pretty well. I've done the blade insert on the shaft end of broken sticks before for road hockey using ABS blades, it gets the job done. You're not using a stick's flex/kickpoint anyways in ball hockey, so it definitely matters less than with ice.

 

[Fremitus Borealis]

So about 4 years ago, I bought a couple of Intermediate-length Graf G45, 55-flex sticks on-sale shortly after getting back into hockey after years away from it. I wasn't really sure what I even needed at the time, but after several years and buying a few more makes/models of sticks, I still haven't found anything "better" than the G45. It seems like every other 55-flex stick I've got is just too "floppy", but everything with a higher flex just feels like it doesn't bend at all, so I feel like I can't get anything behind my shot.

Sadly it seems Graf doesn't even make sticks anymore, so do any of you happen to know if there currently exists anything similar to the Graf G45? I'd ideally like to know what to be looking for before my last one inevitably breaks.

 

[puckpilot]

Sadly it seems Graf doesn't even make sticks anymore, so do any of you happen to know if there currently exists anything similar to the Graf G45?

It's been years since I used a G45. I remember thinking it was a little like the Sherwood EK series, but I wouldn't bet the farm on that fuzzy memory assessment.

Unfortunately, every brand of sticks is a bit different, and at least for me, they all feel different and have their own unique properties. What other sticks have you used that you've liked?

Personally, I really like the way Warrior sticks flex. Easiest loading sticks from my point of view. Regardless, stick companies in general have done a lot of different things to their newer generation sticks that have made them easier to load while preventing the blade from opening up and losing power. Things have advanced quite a bit since the G45. I'm sure there's something out there that will fit you.

 

[Fremitus Borealis]

It's been years since I used a G45. I remember thinking it was a little like the Sherwood EK series, but I wouldn't bet the farm on that fuzzy memory assessment.

Unfortunately, every brand of sticks is a bit different, and at least for me, they all feel different and have their own unique properties. What other sticks have you used that you've liked?

Personally, I really like the way Warrior sticks flex. Easiest loading sticks from my point of view. Regardless, stick companies in general have done a lot of different things to their newer generation sticks that have made them easier to load while preventing the blade from opening up and losing power. Things have advanced quite a bit since the G45. I'm sure there's something out there that will fit you.

Yeah that's what's a bit frustrating: it seems like you have to actually try out every individual stick to know what's gonna work for you, but if you're like me and have to cut them down beforehand, it's not really practical!

Funny you should mention Warrior. The last two sticks I picked up were Intermediate, 55-flex Warrior Dynasty HD5, and Warrior Covert DT5. For whatever reason, despite being the same length and flex as my Graf, they just feel reallllllly floppy on the ice. Maybe I just never got the "learning curve" or something, but I feel like my shots are really weak and inaccurate; hell, even deking is harder, as it almost feels like the puck is pulling the stick backwards if I try any quick moves. On the other end of the spectrum, I also have a Bauer (Supreme 160, I believe?) which just feels I'm using a telephone pole, in terms of flex, and I'm pretty sure it was 60 or 67 out of the box.

 

[puckpilot]

Funny you should mention Warrior. The last two sticks I picked up were Intermediate, 55-flex Warrior Dynasty HD5, and Warrior Covert DT5. For whatever reason, despite being the same length and flex as my Graf, they just feel reallllllly floppy on the ice. Maybe I just never got the "learning curve" or something, but I feel like my shots are really weak and inaccurate; hell, even deking is harder, as it almost feels like the puck is pulling the stick backwards if I try any quick moves. On the other end of the spectrum, I also have a Bauer (Supreme 160, I believe?) which just feels I'm using a telephone pole, in terms of flex, and I'm pretty sure it was 60 or 67 out of the box.

From your description of your experiences and brushing up on what the G45's flex D3 flex profile is. It sounds like a good starting point in your search might be the Bauer Nexus line and the CCM Jetspeed line.

I don't have any first hand knowledge about he Jetspeed, but I own a Nexus and I really like what they've done with the way the stick flexes. It's way easier to load than the previous generation. The Jetspeed has a hybrid flex profile, which sounds on paper similar to Graf's D3.

On a side note. I don't know how practical this is for you, but there are still places online that sell Graf sticks, so that cold be an option too, at least in the short term.

 

[Fremitus Borealis]

From your description of your experiences and brushing up on what the G45's flex D3 flex profile is. It sounds like a good starting point in your search might be the Bauer Nexus line and the CCM Jetspeed line.

I don't have any first hand knowledge about he Jetspeed, but I own a Nexus and I really like what they've done with the way the stick flexes. It's way easier to load than the previous generation. The Jetspeed has a hybrid flex profile, which sounds on paper similar to Graf's D3.

On a side note. I don't know how practical this is for you, but there are still places online that sell Graf sticks, so that cold be an option too, at least in the short term.

Out of curiosity, what might those places be? I haven't been able to find anywhere that still has the G45 in stock.

Thanks for the tip on the Nexus and Jetspeed; I'll look into those.

Curious though: do the flexes tend to be similar all throughout the various versions of any particular model of sticks? In other words, does the $200 Nexus flex the same way the $50 Nexus does, with the difference being primarily weight, or...?

 

[puckpilot]

Out of curiosity, what might those places be? I haven't been able to find anywhere that still has the G45 in stock.

Sorry if I got your hopes up, but I just went and checked, and the places I usually go are now out of stock. I could have sworn they had some around Christmas time, but any way. These are the only places I could find that had any Grafs left.

Pro hockey life is the only place I have ordered from and can vouch for, but they don't have the G45, just the G95. I don't have any experience with API hockey other than browsing their site a few times in the past.

GRAF G95 REVOLT GRIP INT HOCKEY STICK

Graf G45 Revolt Hockey Stick - Intermediate

Thanks for the tip on the Nexus and Jetspeed; I'll look into those.

Curious though: do the flexes tend to be similar all throughout the various versions of any particular model of sticks? In other words, does the $200 Nexus flex the same way the $50 Nexus does, with the difference being primarily weight, or...?

From my limited experience, they'll flex similar but not exactly the same. As you go from top to bottom price points, the stick tends to get a bit softer in feel. For the most part my experience in this is limited to the Warrior QRL line and the CCM Ribcor line. Those are the only sticks I have in multiple price points.

 

[Tyler Durden]

I just bought a True 6.0 Marner Curve 85 Flex Lie 6. I got an extension put into it. I use it for one game of pick up shinny and notice after the game there is a sound as if a pebble is inside the stick. Its an awesome stick but the pebble like sound is very annoying. Any thoughts or concerns, comments? Thanks boys!

 

[Captain Charisma]

Year	BAUER	CCM	EASTON	REEBOK	SHERWOOD	WARRIOR	TRUE
2018	Nexus 2N (mid), 2018 Vapor 1X Lite (low)	SuperTacks AS1 (mid), Jetspeed (variable), Ribcor Trigger 3D PMT (low)	n/a	n/a	EK365 (low)	Covert QR Edge (low)	n/a
2017	2017 Nexus 1N (mid), 2017 Vapor 1X Lite (low)	SuperTacks 2.0 (mid), RBZ FT1 (constant), Ribcor Trigger2 PMT (low)	n/a	n/a	BPM 150 (mid)	Alpha QX (mid-low)	XC9 ACF (mid-low)
2016	Supreme 1S (mid-high), 2016 Vapor 1X (low)	Super Tacks (mid), RBZ Speedburner (constant), Ribcor Trigger ASY (low)	Synergy GX (mid)	n/a	n/a	Covert QRL (low)	A6.0 SBP (mid)
2015	Vapor 1X (low), Nexus 1N (mid)	Ultra Tacks (mid), Ribcor Reckoner (low)	Stealth CX (low)	R27 (low)	Rekker EK60 (low)	Dynasty HD1 (mid)	A6.0 (mid), XCORE 9 (mid-low)
2014	Nexus 8000 (mid), Total One MX3 (mid-high)	CCM RBZ Superfast (constant), Tacks (mid), RIBCOR (low)	V9E (low), Synergy HTX (mid-low)	n/a	True Touch T120 (mid)	Covert QR1 (low)	n/a
2013	Vapor APX2 (variable, low)	RBZ Stage 2 (variable)	Mako II (mid-low), V9 (mid-low)	RIBCOR (low)	Rekker EK15 (low)	Dynasty AX1 LT (mid), Covert DT1 LT (low)	n/a
2012	Total One NXG (mid), ONE.9 (mid), Nexus 1000 (true mid)	RBZ (variable)	Mako (mid-low), M5 (mid-low) Stealth RS II (low)	20k (low)	True Touch T100 (mid)	Covert DT1 (low), Dynasty AX1 (mid)	n/a

[TBODY] [/TBODY]

I believe the CCM RBZ Speedburner was released in 2015. The follow-up for 2016 was the CCM RBZ Revolution.

Thanks for the post. I've found it to be very helpful, along with your skate guide.

 

[puckpilot]

I just bought a True 6.0 Marner Curve 85 Flex Lie 6. I got an extension put into it. I use it for one game of pick up shinny and notice after the game there is a sound as if a pebble is inside the stick. Its an awesome stick but the pebble like sound is very annoying. Any thoughts or concerns, comments? Thanks boys!

It's probably just a piece of leftover resin that shook loose. Nothing to worry about. If you take out the end plug, you can probably shake it out.