PC Building Guide and Discussion #14

stan the caddy

Registered User
Sep 27, 2011
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There's gonna be some fancy new tech that 40 series either won't be able to run or will struggle with when the 50 series comes out. It's bullshit that the 30 series owners are going to have to use fsr if they want frame gen although some mods have been popping up.
 

mouser

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Jul 13, 2006
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Even if the 50 series included some new tech, history tells us it won't be widely adopted by game developers until the 50 is nearing the end of its lifecycle and the 60 series is coming soon.
 

stan the caddy

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Sep 27, 2011
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Even if the 50 series included some new tech, history tells us it won't be widely adopted by game developers until the 50 is nearing the end of its lifecycle and the 60 series is coming soon.

I have a 40 series gpu and the frame gen feature is game changing for ray tracing. Basically negates the performance hit. It's also available in a whole bunch of games already. Supposedly the 30 series "architecture" doesn't allow it but people are skeptical. 30 series users are going to have to use fsr for that feature and that's gonna sting.

I expect nvidia to cook up something similar for the 50 series.
 

Mikeaveli

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Sep 25, 2013
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Rough year for PC ports though luckily I was only interested in one of these games (Dead Space) which is now available on game pass anyways. I do suspect Hogwarts would have made the list if they made a dedicated PC video for the game though.
 

93LEAFS

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Nov 7, 2009
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Rough year for PC ports though luckily I was only interested in one of these games (Dead Space) which is now available on game pass anyways. I do suspect Hogwarts would have made the list if they made a dedicated PC video for the game though.

Playing Hogwarts now, and played Jedi Survivor on PC. Def disappointing in the performance it delivered. Atleast Jedi: Survivor has the excuse of being 9th gen exclusive, I don't know how they attempted to get Hogwarts legacy on PS4, let alone a switch, but have issues getting great performance for a PC with a 13600k/3080ti combo. For both I atleast waited for Steam Sales, as if I hear a port is half ass, even if I want to play it, I'm not buying it at launch/full price. Whereas if it's a well running game I'll absolutely buy it at launch (like Spider-Man 2 for PS5 and some other titles).
 
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SolidSnakeUS

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Osprey

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They also mostly compared them with frame generation enabled so that they'd appear to be 200-300% the speed of the 30xx and 20xx cards. It looks better in the marketing than showing that they're only 3-10% faster than the 40xx non-Supers.
 
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aleshemsky83

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Apr 8, 2008
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Slowly but surely monitors are approaching 1000 Hz with lots of 500 Hz coming out this year but OLED pixel response is needed for that high fps. Glad the matte “anti glare” screen fad is going away and we can get normal glossy screens more and more now too.
 

Osprey

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Feb 18, 2005
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People will say it’s just a unintended glitch
A few days ago, I read that this was cleared up by the Adblock developers, themselves. They admitted that it because of an update that they made to Adblock, not an update that Google made to YouTube. That also explains why uBlock Origin hasn't been affected.
 
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Drake1588

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Finally found an OC'ed 4090 at MSRP, so it's time for a new build. My focus is on gaming, but also processing RAW photos through DxO PureRAW deep learning software. Aesthetics are unimportant. All performance and airflow.

Parts are ordered and in shipping. Went with an AMD and X670 platform, and chose mainly ASUS, be Quiet, Corsair parts. A blacked-out build for the most part, with as little RGB as I can manage these days.
  • ASUS ROG Strix X670E-E Gaming Socket AM5, Ryzen 7000, ATX, 18+2 Power Stages, PCIe 5.0, DDR5, 4xM.2 Slots, 12 USB 3.2 Gen 2 (10 Type A, 2 USB-C), 1 USB 3.2 Gen 2x2 (USB-C), 2.5GB Ethernet, WiFi 6E, BIOS Flashback, CMOS reset, HDMI, DisplayPort
  • AMD Ryzen 9 7900X 12-Core, 24-Thread Unlocked Desktop Processor
  • be quiet! Pure Loop 2 360mm All in One Water Cooler (3 x 120mm Pure Wings 3 fans)
  • Corsair Dominator Platinum RGB DDR5 RAM 64GB (2x32GB) 6000MHz CL40 Memory - Black (CMT64GX5M2B6000C40)
  • Corsair RM1000x Shift 1000W Fully Modular ATX Power Supply, Modular Side Interface, ATX 3.0 & PCIe 5.0 Compliant (80 Plus Gold)
  • ASUS TUF Gaming GeForce RTX 4090 OC Edition Gaming Graphics Card (PCIe 4.0, 24GB GDDR6X, HDMI 2.1a, DisplayPort 1.4a) TUF-RTX4090-O24G-GAMING
  • 1 x 4TB WD_BLACK SN850X NVMe M.2 2280 Gen 4.0 x4 SSD (WDS400T2X0E)
  • 1 x 2TB WD_BLACK SN850X NVMe M.2 2280 Gen 4.0 x4 SSD (WDS200T2X0E)
  • be quiet! DARK BASE PRO 901 Full-Tower ATX PC Case Black (3 x Silent Wings 4 fans)
  • Internal 16X Blu-ray BDXL M-DISC DVD/CD SATA Writer
  • Creative Sound Blaster AE-7 Internal PCIe Sound Card (Quad-Core Processor, 127dB DNR ESS SABRE-class 9018 DAC, Xamp Discrete Custom Bi-amp) with external audio control module
  • ARCTIC MX-6 Thermal Paste
Considered re-using an old Cooler Master HAF-X case, but the Dark Base 901 is a new offering with a 5 1/4" bay tucked in the bottom front that I liked seeing. It still leaves fully 420mm at the front for front fans/radiators.

Air flow: I've considered intaking through the CPU AIO radiator in front, and putting two exhaust fans at the top rear and one at the back. Yet I'd rather bring in cool air over my GPU and exhaust warmer internal air through my CPU AIO radiator. So I'll be intaking with 3 x 140mm fans at the front through an open mesh panel, and exhausting through a 360mm AIO radiator out the top mesh panel. Skipping a rear fan to maintain positive pressure and limit dust intake. That's the plan, anyway.
 
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mouser

Business of Hockey
Jul 13, 2006
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Not a PC build, but in the final stages of a major home network upgrade. My ASUS router was getting a little long in the tooth. While researching replacements I decided to upgrade my entire home network backbone to "pro-sumer" network equipment by Ubiquiti. The Ubiquiti gear is designed for small to medium businesses, but many people have been adopting it for their homes. My home network backbone is now fully layer 3 switched with multiple VLANs for security.

Very impressed with the Ubiquiti UniFi ecosystem. Their devices are automatically recognized and managed from a single UI interface. The UniFi management console supports remote access via secured gateway browser login or with mobile apps. The Dream Machine routing engine can process ~4.5Gb/s with Intrusion Detection and Prevention functions. Also supports home video security cameras.


New equipment:
- Ubiquiti Dream Machine Special Edition ($500). Router plus runs most of the UniFi software suite.
- Ubiquiti 24 port Pro ($400). Layer 3 network switch with 24x 1Gb RJ45 ports and two SPF+ LAN ports (10Gb max per port).
- 2x Ubiquiti WiFi U6+ Access Points ($125/each) (runs on PoE)
- [removed] Motorola MB8611 Cable Modem ($150). DOCSIS 3.1 and 2.5GbE port.
- [added] Arris SURFBoard S33 Cable Modem ($170). DOCSIS 3.1 and 2.5GbE port. -- Had too many issues with the Motorola modem, no issues with the new Arris
- Navepoint 9U wall mount rack with swing gate, 18" deep.
- Rack shelf 14" deep
- CyberPower CP1215RMS rack PDU
- Lysymixs 24 port rack patch panel
- Legrand Amp OnQ 12 port Cat5E punch panel
- 250' bulk CAT6 cable, RJ45 crimper, punch tool, network cable continuity tester.

Old equipment:
- Synology DS418play NAS. 12TB usable storage. Connected to switch with dual 1GbE using 802.3ad Link Aggregation for 2Gb combined bandwidth.


The Dream Machine SE has
- 8 PoE (power over ethernet) 1Gb ports. Currently using only 2 of these for the WiFi access points.
- 2.5Gb WAN port. With the new 2.5Gb cable modem I'm guaranteed 1Gb+ Internet bandwidth with an appropriate cable plan.
- 10Gb SPF+ WAN and LAN ports;
- 128GB SSD;
- HDD bay to add a drive for NVR (network video recorder). Ubiquiti also offers PoE security cameras that integrated with this.
- Router is capable of processing ~4.5Gb/s of fully analyzed traffic with IDS (intrusion detection system) and IPS (intrusion prevention system)
- Dream Machine is connected to the layer 3 switch using a 10GbE SFP+ copper cable. Traffic that doesn't need routing will stay local on the switch.

Scope of work so far:
- Converted 9 telephone lines in my house which were run with CAT5 cable into full ethernet ports. Along with the existing 8 network lines that brings me to a total of 17 hardwired 1Gb cable runs, with dual ethernet ports in many rooms and 4 ports in my home office. Used the Legrand punch panel to swap the phone cables to a CAT5E compliant patch.
- Installed the network rack. Used 3/4" plywood backer on the wall to span the joists. One of my few compliants with the rack--they should include mounting points to work with different joist widths.
- Ran a full set of 17 patch cables from the rack to the network wiring cabinet, everything judiciously labeled.
- Converting home IP range from 192.168.1.1 to 10.x.x.x with multiple VLANS including (a) Trusted Network, (b) Untrusted (guest and work at home employer provided equipment), (c) Internet of Things (IoT) like streaming devices, TV, AVR, garage door opener, etc.
- Firewall rules restricting which VLANs are allowed to talk to each other.
- Configured the WiFi access points. These support multiple VLANs running on the same WiFi SSID--so I can use a single SSID and assign each conencted device into the appropriate VLAN.

Possible future work
- Look at 8-12 drive 2-3U rack mount NAS options when I eventually replace my current NAS.
- Likely add a couple PoE security cameras and a large enough drive in the UDM SE to support them. Ubiquiti stores all video footage to your own equipment without any subscription fees.
- Maybe add their G4 Doorbell camera kit. Includes features like automatic package detection and notification.
- Maybe create a new Server VLAN for the NAS, this would involve a lot of firewall rules and push more traffic through the router engine. Pros and cons to implementing this change.

Thumbnails of the rack in its current state (yes, this is also my laundry room, dryer in the bottom left corner first picture)
IMG_3107.jpgIMG_3108.jpg





Some additional thumbnails showing the wiring and an access point

IMG_3099.jpgIMG_3089.jpgIMG_3103.jpgIMG_3104.jpg
 
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Drake1588

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I have an AE5 Plus lying around, Could of sold it to you for cheaper haha. I have no use for it as I have an X4 instead.
Yeah, I have a couple of those, and another AE-7 in my current gaming rig. This wasn't a cannibalizing rig (though I used to do that a lot in the 90s, right out of college). I keep previous rigs in good nick and mainly complete.

Not against used parts builds; built a retro 486 a couple of years ago (pandemic restlesness) complete with Roland and Yamaha MIDI modules, and obviously, nearly all of that was used. Wanted new parts for this one. Picked up a new optical drive too.
 

Drake1588

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I used an ATX 3.0 Corsair Shift PSU on my build yesterday. The ATX 3.0 design uses the smaller Type5 connectors on the PSU. This PSU is supposed to offer a superior cable solution for the new 12pin graphics card connector (i.e. your PC won't have a small chance to catch fire, brick your GPU, etc). Was still really careful with plugging in cables all the way on both the PSU and the GPU, mind you.

The Shift design also takes all the cable connection points and puts them on the side instead of opposite the On/Off switch and power cord. I was happy seeing this innovation when it was first announced. I now finally have a chance to try one. It's much easier to access the connection points, which should make upgrades much easier later on. Of course, your case has to support side connections, with respect to its PSU shroud design. The width of smaller cases might be an issue too. With cases that do have room and access, though, it's a really nice feature.
 

The Head Crusher

Re-retired
Jan 3, 2008
16,763
2,213
Edmonton
Both of those are not what you want. They have integrated graphics (which is enough for watching video, but not for graphic work or gaming) and puny storage space, for starters.

If you're going to do graphic work, you should get something with a discrete Nvidia Geforce graphics card. Most graphic apps work better on Nvidia cards, and a discrete (non-integrated) card will give you the 8GB of VRAM that you need.

Also, I would get at least 32GB of RAM. You need lots of RAM to do graphic work. You also need disk space for graphic work and games, and I would not want to have only 256GB. Games these days can take up 100GB each. I recommend 1TB (1000GB).

Here's a much better option if you really want something in a small form factor like that: https://www.newegg.ca/p/2SW-0094-00078
It's more expensive, but should safely do everything that you want. You might find a cheaper system and get away with 16GB RAM and a 512GB SSD, but I would pay the extra $200-300, especially if you don't want to replace it for a long time.

If you're not bullish about having a small form factor, you can get something a bit more powerful for less by going with a traditional mid-sized tower, like this one: https://www.newegg.ca/hajaan-cyclonia/p/3D5-001V-00190?Item=9SIARZCK5R5664

Yea I am not concerned about the tower's size in the least. If it is cheaper, but bugger that's just fine with me.
 

aleshemsky83

Registered User
Apr 8, 2008
17,918
464
Anyways I'm having my own issue here, My computer will black screen and the gpu fan will blast, and the interesting thing is that the gpu fan will blast far above what it can even do by setting the fans to 100% in afterburner. Im not playing any games or anything.

Going to have to do some experimentation but im suspecting my gpu may be dying, or its a tempature issue. It doesn't look like a temperature issue as ive looked it at idle and it stays right at 35-40 degrees C. Its a blower card though so who knows they do go more quickly than regular cards.

edit: yeah this keeps happening and the temperatures are fine. Gonna update the drivers and see if it solves it.
I dont know if I ever did a update on this situation.

So I did update my drivers and that did drastically improve the situation, however, it did not completely eliminate this issue. However, after doing some research, I did discover that this may be a crash caused by connecting a splitter cable/split PCIE cable on your PSU, which I recently purchased for the purpose of adding extra storage. Will remove it and see if anything changes and keep you folks updated.
 

Puckstop40

Registered User
Aug 23, 2009
9,196
7,301
Las Vegas, NV
I’m making the jump into PC gaming. There are so many games that look like a blast that you just can’t play on consoles. My knowledge on these things is basically zero but I was curious if anyone knows the best place to buy pre-built? I would prefer to skip the hassle so I can focus on getting a monitor and desk going. Any help is appreciated.
 

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