Cycling

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As a general rule, extensions that point down will be 1) slower 2) less powerful and 3) less comfy. Most think they look fast, but in reality they aren't and definitely aren't comfortable. That's a pretty easy catch for retul ;)

Nice set up BTW. Looks like you put a Cobb saddle on it? Your "boys" will thank you for that.
 
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Grr. Spring is starting to come and I can't ride.

A week ago I got cut off by a vehicle on my daily ride and my sudden braking threw me over my bars and I fractured some bones in my right hand. The next 3 weeks are going to kill me. :rant:

Aerobars and a trainer.... no reason not to ride. Back in the day, I rode with my hand in a cast outside for 6 weeks.... in the winter. Wore an oven mitt over the cast. Worked pretty well. I am by no means recommending this course of action though. I was young and stupid and that was before the computrainer even, so, indoor training was torture. But, with aerobars you can ride on a trainer, no problem.
 
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Aerobars and a trainer.... no reason not to ride. Back in the day, I rode with my hand in a cast outside for 6 weeks.... in the winter. Wore an oven mitt over the cast. Worked pretty well. I am by no means recommending this course of action though. I was young and stupid and that was before the computrainer even, so, indoor training was torture. But, with aerobars you can ride on a trainer, no problem.

Don't really have a trainer sadly. I guess I'll just have to wait 2 more weeks (or attempt to ride one handed). Probably do some more running too.
 
Yeah, we went with a Cobb Plus saddle. Frankenstein-looking thing, with endorsements from female athletes exclusively...

He had a sensor cover he put over the saddle, and had my try a few different ones. He was looking for the best combination of:

- Large contact area
- The point with the highest pressure was to be as low as possible
- My positive feedback (low pressure on a particular area does not matter if it's highly sensitive to that particular person)
 
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Back from vacation. I ended up postponing my FTP test and opted for a MTB ride instead. Turned out that most of the trails were still super muddy. Not the wet/slick mud, the clumpy quicksand kind. I did do some really great firelane climbs; much better than the start of last season.
 
Unreal, what was the name of that race you did around Thanksgiving? Mentioned that to someone today and they were interested in maybe doing it next year.
 
This thread sure has died, eh?

Well quick update on my end. I sprint train at least once a week on the bike, and have also added Orange Theory classes twice a week to my routine. Between adding those 2 things, I'm not comfortably riding in the 19mph+ range. On a good day I can hit 20+. Yesterday I did 40 miles at 20mph on the dot, and today I did 50 miles at just over 19mph. And that was with some really, really bad nutrition on my part where I was seeing spots 25 miles into both of those rides. One day I'll stop being a dumbass and pay more attention to that.

Oh, and here is a pic from my ride the other weekend when I was up in Charleston. I have never biked in winds like that before, holy **** that was nuts. Luckily it was head on, or directly at my back the entire time. When I was biking into the wind my heart rate was pushing 180 and I was going 12mph on flat ground.

image_2.jpg
 
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Nice one, Ray.

I've picked it up with the bike - 125 km on Thursday, in a group, then 50 yesterday, of relaxed recovery, and I'll be doing 70 today and tomorrow with my brother (headed to Easter dinner at my parents').

It's sunny here, but at present (7:10 am) it's just over freezing.
 
Hey guys, hoping to get some input from you.

First off: I want to get into biking, and am looking to buy a bike. There are a lot of bike shops in the area, but the bikes there are pretty expensive. It seems like the benefit to that is that the bikes are fit to you. Is it difficult to find a bike that would fit me on the secondary market? (Craigslist, ebay, etc.) I think I have pretty average dimensions (5'11", 30-32" length pants fit me best)

Second: I think a hybrid bike would fit me best based on the research I have done, but wouldn't mind some input from those who actually ride them. The main use will be for commuting and fitness on roads, and paved trails along our canal. I would also like to be able to ride on groomed dirt trails if its possible, but it would be a secondary, bonus feature and not a necessity.

What is a reasonable price to spend for a beginner on a new or used bike?
 
Nice one, Ray.

I've picked it up with the bike - 125 km on Thursday, in a group, then 50 yesterday, of relaxed recovery, and I'll be doing 70 today and tomorrow with my brother (headed to Easter dinner at my parents').

It's sunny here, but at present (7:10 am) it's just over freezing.

Still that chilly by you? Weather here is perfect right now. Took a little time off the bike but about to start hitting it big and logging some serious mileage. Taking today off the bike, will go for a run, but looking at another 50+ miles come tomorrow.
 
Hey guys, hoping to get some input from you.

First off: I want to get into biking, and am looking to buy a bike. There are a lot of bike shops in the area, but the bikes there are pretty expensive. It seems like the benefit to that is that the bikes are fit to you. Is it difficult to find a bike that would fit me on the secondary market? (Craigslist, ebay, etc.) I think I have pretty average dimensions (5'11", 30-32" length pants fit me best)

Does buying a bike at these shops include a custom fit? Normally at a shop, you are buying a pre-assembled bike that may or may not be an optimal fit for you. Really the only thing you need to know is what frame size would fit you. Based on your height, probably a 54-56cm frame. All other parts can be adjusted (seat height, forward/backward position of the seat, the stem, etc.). Frame geometry varies between different bike manufacturers, but you can compensate for the slight variations by making adjustments elsewhere on the bike.

Do you live in a major city? It shouldn't be difficult at all to find a quality used bike. Again, you need to have a general idea about what frame size to look for.

Second: I think a hybrid bike would fit me best based on the research I have done, but wouldn't mind some input from those who actually ride them. The main use will be for commuting and fitness on roads, and paved trails along our canal. I would also like to be able to ride on groomed dirt trails if its possible, but it would be a secondary, bonus feature and not a necessity.

What is a reasonable price to spend for a beginner on a new or used bike?

If the vast majority of your riding is going to be on paved paths, I would strongly recommend a road bike over a hybrid bike. You may sacrifice a little bit of comfort at first, but the efficiency gains are well worth it. Riding on groomed dirt trails is possible on a road bike, you just need bigger tires inflated to a lower pressure. Speaking of which, you should probably consider moderately larger tires (28mm) set at a lower pressure (approximately half your bodyweight (lb/psi) for general riding anyway. The ride will be more comfortable, you'll reduce your chances of getting a flat, you can ride on rougher terrain, and the rolling resistance may even be less than a skinny, highly inflated tire.

Money spent on a bike is a personal thing and there are ALWAYS tradeoffs. The prices on bikes can also vary wildly between regions and between seasons. My gf got a great used road bike that was well maintained for just over $300, which was just under half of what it would have sold for new (you should be able to look up the retail price on any used bike that you come across). The other advantage to buying used is that you can usually sell it for close to what you paid for it.

I built my own road bike for slightly more than $2K, but it has the material, weight and components of a bike that would cost $5K in a bike shop. My tradeoffs were no warranty, some of the parts were slightly out of tolerance (this shouldn't normally happen), and the building process was a pain in the ass at times and took a little longer than it should have. I had another bike to ride at the time though.
 
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This thread sure has died, eh?

Well quick update on my end. I sprint train at least once a week on the bike, and have also added Orange Theory classes twice a week to my routine. Between adding those 2 things, I'm not comfortably riding in the 19mph+ range. On a good day I can hit 20+. Yesterday I did 40 miles at 20mph on the dot, and today I did 50 miles at just over 19mph. And that was with some really, really bad nutrition on my part where I was seeing spots 25 miles into both of those rides. One day I'll stop being a dumbass and pay more attention to that.

Oh, and here is a pic from my ride the other weekend when I was up in Charleston. I have never biked in winds like that before, holy **** that was nuts. Luckily it was head on, or directly at my back the entire time. When I was biking into the wind my heart rate was pushing 180 and I was going 12mph on flat ground.


Mission accomplished!
 
My brother and I rode home for Easter dinner yesterday at an average of round about 35 kph over 63 km. As soon as the road tipped up though, he kept asking me to slow down. Guess the legs have officially arrived!

Rode the same track back alone today, and I was bit worn, so the average was down to 32. But just lovely rides right now, very sunny, and a brisk 8 degrees.
 
Does buying a bike at these shops include a custom fit? Normally at a shop, you are buying a pre-assembled bike that may or may not be an optimal fit for you. Really the only thing you need to know is what frame size would fit you. Based on your height, probably a 54-56cm frame. All other parts can be adjusted (seat height, forward/backward position of the seat, the stem, etc.). Frame geometry varies between different bike manufacturers, but you can compensate for the slight variations by making adjustments elsewhere on the bike.

Do you live in a major city? It shouldn't be difficult at all to find a quality used bike. Again, you need to have a general idea about what frame size to look for.

I believe it does yes. On their sites they list being fitted for a bike as an advantage of buying elsewhere. Would it be advantages to go with the bigger or smaller frame when uncertain?

I live in a "AAA" city. Rochester, NY. Its not on the same level as the big cities (Pittsburgh, Boston, NYC etc.), but it is a decent size. There are a lot of roads and trails here to ride. I would also like something I can bring to the Adirondack Mountains which would still be road riding, but very hilly terrain whereas Rochester is fairly flat in comparison to a city like Pittsburgh or San Fran.



If the vast majority of your riding is going to be on paved paths, I would strongly recommend a road bike over a hybrid bike. You may sacrifice a little bit of comfort at first, but the efficiency gains are well worth it. Riding on groomed dirt trails is possible on a road bike, you just need bigger tires inflated to a lower pressure. Speaking of which, you should probably consider moderately larger tires (28mm) set at a lower pressure (approximately half your bodyweight (lb/psi) for general riding anyway. The ride will be more comfortable, you'll reduce your chances of getting a flat, you can ride on rougher terrain, and the rolling resistance may even be less than a skinny, highly inflated tire.

Are tires very interchangeable with these bikes? I used to work on cars so I have some technical know how, but don't know how to relate it to bikes quite yet. I know with cars and tires you have to consider wheel well clearance, and the bolt pattern when trying to find wheels for cars. So for example I know you can't fit tires from a Hummer on a Chevy Cobalt. Can you take mountain bike tires and have them work on a road bike? I know there are other difference such as the suspension, but I am just curious. Is that what these Cyclocross bikes are? Dirt racing bikes/road bikes with mountain tires?

When you say bigger tire with less pressure, do you mean a taller wheel, or just more sidewall on the tire?

Are there bike forums or sites where I can find some good technical info? I realize I probably sound extremely green, which is fine because I am, but I would like to learn these nuances before I make a purchase.

Money spent on a bike is a personal thing and there are ALWAYS tradeoffs. The prices on bikes can also vary wildly between regions and between seasons. My gf got a great used road bike that was well maintained for just over $300, which was just under half of what it would have sold for new (you should be able to look up the retail price on any used bike that you come across). The other advantage to buying used is that you can usually sell it for close to what you paid for it.

I built my own road bike for slightly more than $2K, but it has the material, weight and components of a bike that would cost $5K in a bike shop. My tradeoffs were no warranty, some of the parts were slightly out of tolerance (this shouldn't normally happen), and the building process was a pain in the ass at times and took a little longer than it should have. I had another bike to ride at the time though.

I have definitely noticed the large price range, I was originally thinking of a new bike in the $600 range, but I am starting to lean towards used.

Thanks for all your input, you've been very helpful and I appreciate that.
 
Hey guys..

Question for you.. when you're selling a bike - what is the best avenue? I posted a feeler online and I'm getting kinda laughable offers.

I have a Specialized Sequoia elite (2005) with Dura ace hubs, shimano 105 shifters, CF seatpost, and other upgrades.
 
I believe it does yes. On their sites they list being fitted for a bike as an advantage of buying elsewhere. Would it be advantages to go with the bigger or smaller frame when uncertain?

It depends on what kind of "fit" you are talking about. A professional fit is around $100-$200. The kind of "fit" they are speaking of may just mean to be able to stand over and test out the bike. They could throw in other eyeball adjustments too like your seat height and stem length, but I doubt they will put you on a fitting machine.

I can't answer that 2nd question because I don't think it's that simple to answer. Just remember the sizes of the bikes you tried on and liked. Then you can look up the frame geometry at home so you have a better basis to compare it with. When you stand over a bike (feet on the ground and body in front of the seat), you should be able to pull up on the front of the bike and pull the wheel off the ground slightly without, well, squishing yourself.

I live in a "AAA" city. Rochester, NY. Its not on the same level as the big cities (Pittsburgh, Boston, NYC etc.), but it is a decent size. There are a lot of roads and trails here to ride. I would also like something I can bring to the Adirondack Mountains which would still be road riding, but very hilly terrain whereas Rochester is fairly flat in comparison to a city like Pittsburgh or San Fran.

Having a hilly terrain is even more reason to get a road bike. You'll be in tears trying to climb on a hybrid.

Are tires very interchangeable with these bikes? I used to work on cars so I have some technical know how, but don't know how to relate it to bikes quite yet. I know with cars and tires you have to consider wheel well clearance, and the bolt pattern when trying to find wheels for cars. So for example I know you can't fit tires from a Hummer on a Chevy Cobalt. Can you take mountain bike tires and have them work on a road bike? I know there are other difference such as the suspension, but I am just curious. Is that what these Cyclocross bikes are? Dirt racing bikes/road bikes with mountain tires?

Road bike wheels are a standardized size. The rim width and depth can vary. That and the clearance of the front fork and rear triangle will determine what size tire you can mount. The most common size tires are 23 and 25 mm on a road bike. A lot of people though prefer a 28 mm because of the comfort, durability and potentially decreased rolling resistance (even flat roads are not perfectly flat). Other people can mount a 32 mm tire, but not all bikes and rims will take that.

Cyclocross bikes are pretty much just road bikes that you can ride on rougher and muddier terrain. They have disc brakes, which is a whole different world of braking. They aren't the same as mountain bikes though, and mountain bike tires are not compatible with road bike wheels.

When you say bigger tire with less pressure, do you mean a taller wheel, or just more sidewall on the tire?

Again, the wheel sizes are standardized to 700mm. The bigger tires refer to the width, but they also extend the height slightly as well. The width and depth of the rim will determine how the tire ultimately inflates. That's why some tires are too big for some wheels; you'll get a 'lightbulb' effect.

Are there bike forums or sites where I can find some good technical info? I realize I probably sound extremely green, which is fine because I am, but I would like to learn these nuances before I make a purchase.

This should be all you need: http://forums.roadbikereview.com/forum.php

I have definitely noticed the large price range, I was originally thinking of a new bike in the $600 range, but I am starting to lean towards used.

Thanks for all your input, you've been very helpful and I appreciate that.

A used bike is a great way to break into cycling. If you don't like it, you minimize your loss. If you end up loving it, well, better start putting away some extra money :laugh:

Edit: one last thing, buy a (very) good helmet and go out of your way to make yourself visible to motorists (bright flashing lights, visible clothing, reflective tape, etc.). You should follow this piece of advice before even considering anything else that I've said.
 
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Hey guys..

Question for you.. when you're selling a bike - what is the best avenue? I posted a feeler online and I'm getting kinda laughable offers.

I have a Specialized Sequoia elite (2005) with Dura ace hubs, shimano 105 shifters, CF seatpost, and other upgrades.

You'll always get lowball offers, especially at first as there are people who just circle those listings like piranhas, hoping that someone is selling a bike for quick drug money. Realistically though, your bike is only worth what someone else is willing to pay for it so keep that in mind too.
 
Mission accomplished!

god_damn_right_breaking_bad.gif


Now I need to work on some new goals, while maintaining that 19.5-20.5 pace. New goals will most likely be just focusing on transitioning from the bike to the run. Haven't gotten into that as much as I should have.
 
It depends on what kind of "fit" you are talking about. A professional fit is around $100-$200. The kind of "fit" they are speaking of may just mean to be able to stand over and test out the bike. They could throw in other eyeball adjustments too like your seat height and stem length, but I doubt they will put you on a fitting machine.

I can't answer that 2nd question because I don't think it's that simple to answer. Just remember the sizes of the bikes you tried on and liked. Then you can look up the frame geometry at home so you have a better basis to compare it with. When you stand over a bike (feet on the ground and body in front of the seat), you should be able to pull up on the front of the bike and pull the wheel off the ground slightly without, well, squishing yourself.



Having a hilly terrain is even more reason to get a road bike. You'll be in tears trying to climb on a hybrid.



Road bike wheels are a standardized size. The rim width and depth can vary. That and the clearance of the front fork and rear triangle will determine what size tire you can mount. The most common size tires are 23 and 25 mm on a road bike. A lot of people though prefer a 28 mm because of the comfort, durability and potentially decreased rolling resistance (even flat roads are not perfectly flat). Other people can mount a 32 mm tire, but not all bikes and rims will take that.

Cyclocross bikes are pretty much just road bikes that you can ride on rougher and muddier terrain. They have disc brakes, which is a whole different world of braking. They aren't the same as mountain bikes though, and mountain bike tires are not compatible with road bike wheels.



Again, the wheel sizes are standardized to 700mm. The bigger tires refer to the width, but they also extend the height slightly as well. The width and depth of the rim will determine how the tire ultimately inflates. That's why some tires are too big for some wheels; you'll get a 'lightbulb' effect.



This should be all you need: http://forums.roadbikereview.com/forum.php



A used bike is a great way to break into cycling. If you don't like it, you minimize your loss. If you end up loving it, well, better start putting away some extra money :laugh:

Edit: one last thing, buy a (very) good helmet and go out of your way to make yourself visible to motorists (bright flashing lights, visible clothing, reflective tape, etc.). You should follow this piece of advice before even considering anything else that I've said.

Thanks once again! I'll start taking a gander online and see what I can find.

I always see people biking at night with very little lighting or protection and it blows my mind. Needless to say its something I won't skimp on.
 
First ride today since injury. 27.3km/hr pace for just under 20km. Not too bad I suppose after almost 6 weeks off. 30kmh is my average throughout the summer usually. Hopefully will start getting some longer rides in soon. I love planning out new routes and then riding them.

@Ray: what kind of bike is that? Looks very similar to what I ride.
 
Cannondale SuperSix Evo... which I had to take into the shop today, and won't get back until Wednesday most likely. :cry:
 
Cannondale SuperSix Evo... which I had to take into the shop today, and won't get back until Wednesday most likely. :cry:

:( That sucks. Just general service?

I ride a Cannondale CaadX. So far it's held up well for the amount of riding that I do. Last season was its first.
 

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