Honour Over Glory
#firesully
- Jan 30, 2012
- 81,803
- 46,124
Ender 3 is great if you are into modifying your machine a lot. Creality Ender 3 are known for not being user friendly right out of the box, it takes a little tweaking and upgrades to get it to print to even moderately decent.I have no personal home experience so HOG may be your best source here but the name I always see people point to for a good all-around entry point is the Ender 3. I believe that's the brand the robotic club I help out with uses for all of their 3d part printing.
Prusa, Bambu, and to a lesser extent Creality and Anycubic are the ones you'll hear about the most. Then there's Elegoo, Voxelab, Phrozen, FlashForge, AnkerMake, and Sovol amongst many others. I can tell you, from having Anycubic to start with, then got a Creality Ender 3 which I converted to a laser engraver with their add on and then moving into Prusa XL (Prusa XL is what Ender 3 wants to be, it's the Kia pretending to be Toyota as it were) and finally I got Bambu Labs X-1 Carbon and it's been a breeze with touble shooting and fixing things.
There's a ton of sites with test prints and help with forums on those sites.
Thingiverse
Printables
Cults3D
Instructables
crealitycloud
stlflix
MyMiniFactory
GrabCad
Etc, then there's ways to make your own files of course which you can design in Fusion360, Blender, FreeCad, TinkerCad, and Nomad Sculpt is getting a lot of hype lately (it's a fun app).
There's also things to keep in mind for glass temp - ABS is great for printing stuff for your vehicle if you live in a hot area, otherwise PETG will hold up to warping - PETG and ABS will be great for outdoors as well, PLA and TPU could be as well, PLA would need to be sanded, primed and then painted with a proper paint for outdoors where as TPU if you get the right settings and the best TPU filament, you can make it work to an extent but not recommended.
Like I said, it's a very deep rabbit hole once you get into it. I still toy around with SLA for my hobby for more detailed prints for scale models (cars), but for prototyping and other things I stick with FDM (Filament) which is quicker and more durable for the material options.
SLA is fun up until you have to clean the vat up and pour the Resin back in with a strainer to make sure no bits fall back into the bottle and the Resin has a shorter shelf life, but really that doesn't matter, you can cure it and it'll be fine as it's less likely something you are going to use in practical terms. It's mostly used for modelling - which is exactly what I also got it for. To make body kits or make a more detailed engine in Fusion360 and parts to take a relaxing hobby and turn it into the most stressful one you can imagine.I don’t remember what model I have but it’s a cheaper liquid one. I made a bunch of dnd figures with it and it worked out, but I never really learned much about the settings etc.