Equipment: SKATES - Buying Guide and Advice IV

[AIREAYE]

Jarick asked me to write a Skate buying guide for addition to the database above and I gladly obliged. For more specific questions or suggestions, feel free to PM me

Skate Buying Guide​

FIT IS THE MOST IMPORTANT
THIS IS NOT A FITTING GUIDE, BUT A PRIMER

Introduction:

It is important to understand that no skate will make you a better skater, just like any other gear, but on the flip side, having an improper skate for your foot/playing level could definitely hamper your ability. Next to helmets, skates are probably your most important piece of gear and thus, it is imperative to take the time and the budget to outfit yourself properly and if you’re fortunate to have a competent shop nearby, by all means go and seek their advice and support them with a purchase.

I also must stress that this guide is NOT INTENDED TO FIT THE READER, but intended to provide a good starting point for anyone looking to undertake a skate search, by no means is it a definitive rulebook. I write this guide to cater to anyone from the absolute beginner to the advanced level player and from toddlers to adults. Enjoy!

Sizing:

Technically a part of fit, finding the right numerical size is not an exact science, even though there are devices to measure it. Go to any skate/shoe shop looking for size and you’ll likely be sized with a Brannock device, with notches every half size along. Skate brannocks are different than shoe ones obviously and should always be used. A SENIOR size would be size 6 and above, a JUNIOR would be size 1 – 5.5 and a YOUTH would be 13.5 and below.

A very common belief regarding the relationship between shoe and skate size is that skate size is 'x' sizes down from shoe. There is no hard and fast rule about this. There is no concrete relation because of things like the fact that many people wear shoes either smaller or larger than what they should be in, or the fact that there are sizing inconsistencies from even within both shoe and skate manufacturers. The most accurate way to find your size is to determine the Brannock size and go from there. Some fitters prefer to figure out the smallest possible size that one would fit into and go around that mark, but the results should be the same. For those with differently sized feet, it is advisable to size yourself to the smaller foot, as the shop can stretch/adjust for the longer foot if they have the hardware.

For adults whose feet have stopped growing, the perfect fit is when, standing up, your longest toe skims or barely grazes the front of the toecap. One has to keep in mind that when in a skating motion and post-break-in, your foot slides back slightly, giving you a little room between toe and toecap and that your toes are not always perfectly flat when skating.

The dangers of getting a skate too big would be the risk of blisters due to a sliding foot or even bone spurs and other discomforts. Energy transfer in every stride is lost due to a sliding foot and heel lock is also compromised. For more insight into fitting children for skates, message me or post a comment in this thread.


Fit:

Now that you have found a size, it’s time to consider what type of boot from a manufacturer will fit your foot. The only way to achieve this is to understand where to start looking and trying on as many pairs in that ‘fit range’ as you can. It's important to understand that the terms I use to describe fit are not exact measurements, but are more by feel. This means that if you believe that you have a wider foot, you may still yet fit into something a little narrower. Hence, it's important to try on different fits.

Each manufacturer offers a different type of fit within each of their lines. It’s also important to know that some manufacturers have changed the type of fit/style of boot over the years so that ‘x’ brand skate from 5 years ago might not fit the same as today. For this section, I’ve decided to list out each manufacturer’s lines from recent/current times and explain some characteristics. Again, this is a rough starting point and my descriptions are (if you really want to get technical) arbitrary, but based on extensive experience.

Bauer
Features a 3 fit family with different characteristics and skates for all levels, for Bauer's descriptions, click here: Ice Hockey Skates for Players | BAUER

Here's a visual guide provided by Bauer:
View media item 1645
Vapor :

• Tapered fit - Narrower and shallower heel pocket gradually widens out to an average width toe box and forefoot. This is the narrowest of the 3 Bauer fits.
• Slightly forward leaning stance due to aggressive angle of boot, tendon guard/back spine and lacing pattern
• Shallow boot (shallow instep)
• New for 2013 onwards : Lightspeed Edge holder with quick replaceable runner system, +3mm taller holder compared to previous holders

Supreme :

• Anatomical fit - Rounder heel pocket, prominent ankle padding, more anatomically shaped than Vapor
• Wider forefoot/midfoot and heel compared to Vapor (Supreme C ~ Vapor D, Supreme D ~ E etc.)
• Slightly deeper boot than Vapor
• Higher end models feature a lower boot cut to optimize mobility
• NEW for 2014 onwards (MX3 - 160): Lightspeed Edge holder with quick replaceable runner system, +3mm taller holder compared to previous holders

Nexus :

• Wider and deeper than Supreme; widest and deepest Bauer fit
• Round, traditionally shaped deep heel pocket
• Boxy toecap, wider than Supreme
• Mid line models feature more forgiving/flexible than comparable Supreme or Vapor models
• NEW for 2014 onwards (8000 - 5000): Lightspeed Edge holder with quick replaceable runner system, +3mm taller holder compared to previous holders

*Note: Bauer EE width skates are 1/4 inch longer than their D width counterparts (see Width section below)

CCM
Like Bauer, CCM features a 3 fit family with different characteristics and skates for all levels. There's no true direct comparable to Bauer's 3 families here. All of Bauer's and CCM's families fit different from each other, hence the need to try on different fits. If I had to group some together however, I see similarities in:

• CCM Ribcor's narrower fit profile to Bauer Vapor's
• CCM Jetspeed's tapered fit profile to Bauer Vapor and their anatomical fit profile to Bauer Supreme
• CCM Tacks's anatomical fit profile to Bauer Supreme and their boxier fit to Bauer Nexus

See below for CCM's visual skate guide:
View media item 1623View media item 1625
CCM Ribcor (2017-Present)

• Changes from Pre 2017 - No more Pump; more contoured heel/ankle fit
• Narrower fit in general (but rather versatile, all aspects of fit are narrower than Tacks or Jetspeed/RBZ (heel, width, toebox width & depth, instep depth)
• Continuity from Reebok - the Ribcor line has 'lost weight' over the years by ditching the pump, it's flat thicker padding and older materials (i.e. heavier). In doing so, the fit and feel has changed from the Reebok Ribcor models and from older Reebok skates in general.

CCM Ribcor (Pre 2017)

• Narrower fit in general (but rather versatile, all aspects of fit are narrower than Tacks or Jetspeed (heel, width, toebox width & depth, instep depth)
• Thicker and 'plumper' ankle padding with no specific contoured shape
• Improved 'Pump' feature (50K-42K) inflates ankle area for better heel-lock
• Continuity from Reebok: the Ribcor line has 'lost weight' over the years by ditching the flat thicker padding and older materials (i.e. heavier). In doing so, the fit and feel has changed from the Reebok Ribcor models and from older Reebok skates in general.

CCM Jetspeed

• Slightly wider than Ribcor, but slightly narrower than Tacks (in terms of forefoot width, ankle/heel, depth etc.)
• Contoured and anatomically shaped ankle and heel
• 'Regular' skate sizing in line with the rest of the CCM families, Bauer etc.

CCM Tacks (2017-Present)

• FIT CHANGES FROM CCM TACKS 2016:
- Regular skate sizing; now (finally) in line with all other CCM and Bauer skate families
• Overall; a focus on an anatomical fit with a tight ankle wrap, while also having the widest/boxiest fit of the 3 CCM families.

CCM Tacks (2016)

• FIT CHANGE FROM PREVIOUS TACKS:
- Sizes larger than all other skates by 0.5 size (i.e. if you are a size 8.0 in Bauer Supreme or CCM Tacks (2014) or CCM Ribcor, you should be 8.5 in CCM Tacks (2016))
- Narrower and shallower in all areas than previous Tacks (more anatomical fit) but still wider than Jetspeed/Ribcor
- Regular pitch
• Speedblade 4.0 holders (+ 4mm taller than previous holders) featured on all Tacks skates
• Extremely heat mouldable on higher end models and a very versatile fit

CCM Tacks (2013-2015)

• Widest fit in general, all aspects of fit are wider than Ribcor and Jetspeed (heel, width, toebox width & depth, instep depth)
• Speedblade 4.0 holders (+ 4mm taller than previous holders) featured on all Tacks skates
• Extremely heat mouldable on higher end models and a very versatile fit

CCM RBZ (discontinued as of July, 2015)

• Widest fit (widest heel, width, toecap etc.)
• Round, deep anatomical heel pocket
• ***Unique sizing scheme throughout the line: necessary to drop at least a 0.5 size from your 'regular' size (in Bauer, Reebok, CCM etc.)
• Tremendous level of heat mouldability on higher end models
• Speedblade 4.0 holders (+ 4mm taller than previous holders) featured from RBZ - RBZ 70

CCM RBZ (top end) review thread : http://hfboards.mandatory.com/showthread.php?t=1464383

Reebok (discontinued as of 2015)

2014 Ribcor

• Narrower fit (narrower than previous Reeboks, narrowest of CCM/Reebok's 3 families)
• Thicker ankle padding (air bladder in there)
• Pump feature beefs up ankle area for better heel-lock
• Shallower boot than CCM and Bauer Supreme/Nexus
• Round, tapered toe cap
• NEW for 2014 onwards (Ribcor - 24K): Speedblade 4.0 holder is 4mm taller than previous holders

REEBOK : 2009-2013 models (11K line, 20K line)

• Wider fit in general
• Thicker ankle padding (air bladder in there)
• Pump feature beefs up ankle area for better heel-lock
• Shallower boot than CCM and Bauer Supreme/Nexus
• Round, tapered toe cap
• From 11K line to 20K line : narrower heel, Pump works better on back ankle to lock in heel

Easton (now discontinued)

Mako & Mako 2 :
• Unique skate design based off of speed skates - aim to to offer a completely (except for toecap) heat moldable boot that would fit most people
• One MUST heat these to try them on, as they almost completely take the shape of the foot
• Shallower boot depth
• Ability to offer a tight 360 degree wrap in ankles
• Flexible tendon guard
• Aggressive forward pitch

Graf - This is one brand of skate I have little knowledge on, for more info, visit their website (Home: Grafskates) and consult a fitter carrying Graf skates. As of Spring 2016, GRAF Canada is no longer an operating company.

Click to read more...

 

[AIREAYE]

Widths :

A quick note regarding widths; you’ll likely see letters denoting width such as ‘D’, ‘E’, ‘EE’, ‘R’, ‘W’ or ‘C’ as the most common examples. I just want to clarify that a ‘D’ or ‘standard’ width is not consistent across skate lines and same with every other letter. For example, a Supreme ‘D’ width is actually a true ‘E’ width (due to the wider last) whereas a Vapor ‘D’ could be considered the true ‘standard’. Similarly we could also say that a CCM ‘D’ is not exactly equal to either a Reebok ‘D’ or Supreme ‘D’ either. They may be similar and some of you may find little difference, but it essentially depends on your own foot shape.

As a rule of thumb, the width denominations within each skate line simply denotes whether a particular skate is wider or of regular width within its own line. It’s hard to give examples in this context since everyone’s foot is different. However, it’s safe to say that if you’re not 100% confident on a width, you shouldn’t be set on a purchase without trying either narrower or wider. Ultimately though, one must remember that a skate should wrap snugly around the forefoot without feeling pressure or pain along the sides.

In comparing a particular skate/family/brand's widths, they generally are the same length. Bauer's the exception here, as their EE width skates are 1/4 inch longer than their D width counterparts, and also feature a longer holder/blade as a result. For most people contemplating between widths, the above advice still applies as the length difference isn't significant enough to make or break, though its definitely advisable to try the half size down when going to EE.

Ultimately, in deciding between widths, it's almost always better to go with the skate that is just slightly narrower, as opposed to a skate that is just slightly too wide, because skates can be expanded (through baking, break-in, stretching, punching etc.) over time, but cannot contract.

Price-Points :

Provided that you have narrowed down your right fit to a line or two, it’s time to consider how much you want to spend and the relation to your skating/playing level. Fortunately, since this is up to the buyer, this section should be pretty straightforward. Bolded denotes the current family. Note that skate families for Bauer and CCM are usually in 2 year cycles, meaning that after 2 years, a new line comes in for each family.

Top-End Skates (Reg. $700+) :

Year	BAUER VAPOR	BAUER SUPREME	BAUER NEXUS	CCM RIBCOR	CCM JETSPEED	CCM TACKS	EASTON	OTHER
2018	1X (2017), X900 (2017)	2S Pro, 2S	2N	70K	FT1	Super Tacks AS1, Tacks 9090	n/a	True Hockey Pro Custom
2017	1X (2017), X900 (2017)	1S, S190	1N, N9000	70K	FT1	Super Tacks, Ultra Tacks	n/a	True Hockey Pro Custom (full custom, $1000+)
2016	1X (2015), X900 (2015)	1S, S190	1N, N9000	50K	Jetspeed	Super Tacks, Ultra Tacks	n/a	VH Footwear (full custom)
2015	1X (2015), X900 (2015)	TotalOne MX3, 190	Nexus 8000, Nexus 7000	50K	Jetspeed	Tacks	Mako II	VH Footwear (full custom)
2014	APX2, X100, X90	TotalOne MX3, 190	Nexus 8000, Nexus 7000	(formerly Reebok) Ribcor	(unique line, different fit) RBZ	Tacks	Mako II	n/a
2013	APX2, X100, X90	TotalOne NXG, One.9	Nexus 1000	Reebok 20K	(unique line, different fit) RBZ	n/a	Mako

[TBODY] [/TBODY]

This range geared towards the pro/high/competitive level skater playing very frequently over the course of the season. Built with the highest quality materials, you can expect this range to have the greatest level of support and performance for those powerful strides and movements needing maximum energy transfer; this is the biggest selling point for this level. The amount of support in both the boot and tongue is top-notch, heat mouldability should be at its best while the quality of the holder and steel should be at its highest as well (more on these below). Weight should also be at its lowest.

High End Skates (Reg. $400-$700) :

Year	BAUER VAPOR	BAUER SUPREME	BAUER NEXUS	CCM RIBCOR	CCM JETSPEED	CCM TACKS	EASTON	OTHER
2018	X800 (2017), X700 (2017)			68K	FT390,FT380	9080	n/a	n/a
2017	X800 (2017), X700 (2017)	S180	N8000	68K	FT390,FT380	6092	n/a	n/a
2016	X800 (2015), X700 (2015)	S180	N8000	48K	300, 290	6092	n/a	n/a
2015	X800 (2015), X700 (2015)	180	Nexus 7000	48K	300, 290	6052	Mako M8	n/a
2014	X80	180	Nexus 7000	Reebok 30K	(unique line, different fit) RBZ 100, RBZ 90	6052	Mako M8	n/a
2013	X80	One.8	Nexus 800	Reebok 18K	(unique line, different fit) RBZ 100, RBZ 90	n/a	Stealth RS	n/a

[TBODY] [/TBODY]

This range is geared to those playing at a high or intermediate level desiring top end performance without the top end price. In my opinion, the lower end of this price range has the greatest value as you get most of the high end features at a lower price. Also, skates in this range are often (so, not always) an older model top end skate with a few differences. Materials and every other aspect should take a very slight downgrade (not always the case).

Mid-End Skates (Reg. $200-$400) :

Year	BAUER VAPOR	BAUER SUPREME	BAUER NEXUS	CCM RIBCOR	CCM JETSPEED	CCM TACKS	EASTON
2018	X600 (2017), X500 (2017)	S29	2900	66K	FT370,FT360	9070	n/a
2017	X600 (2017), X500 (2017)	S170, S160	N7000	66K	FT370,FT360	5092, 4092	n/a
2016	X600 (2015), X500 (2015)	S170, S160	N7000	46K, 44K	280, 270	5092, 4092	n/a
2015	X600 (2015), X500 (2015)	170, 160	Nexus 6000, Nexus 5000	46K, 44K	280, 270	5052, 4052	Mako M7
2014	X70, X60	170, 160	Nexus 6000, Nexus 5000	Reebok Ribcor 28K, 26K	(unique line, different fit) RBZ 80, RBZ 70	Tacks 5052, 4052	n/a
2013	X70, X60	One.7, One.6	Nexus 600	Reebok 17K, 16K, 14K	(unique line, different fit) RBZ 80, RBZ 70	n/a	Stealth 85S, 75S

[TBODY] [/TBODY]

This range caters to the average or intermediate level skater needing a skate that will perform for them without the unnecessary stiffness and price. Specs-wise it’s simply a continuously proportional level of downgrade (obviously, right?). In my opinion, this is a great range for your average beer-leaguer or house-league/lower competitive level youth player.

Lower-Middle End Skates (Reg. $150-$250) :

Year	BAUER VAPOR	BAUER SUPREME	BAUER NEXUS	CCM RIBCOR	CCM JETSPEED	CCM TACKS	EASTON
2018	X400 (2017)	S27	2700	64K	FT350	9060, 9050	n/a
2017	X400 (2017)	S150	N6000	64K	FT350	3092	n/a
2016	X400 (2015)	S150	N6000	42K	260	3092	n/a
2015	X400	150	Nexus 4000	42K	260	3052	n/a
2014	X50	150	Nexus 4000	Reebok 24K	(unique line, different fit) RBZ 60, RBZ 50	3052	n/a
2013	X50	One.5	Nexus 400	Reebok White K, 12K	(unique line, different fit) RBZ 60, RBZ 50	n/a	Stealth 65S

[TBODY] [/TBODY]

This range caters to your beginner beer leaguer, house league/select player and the frequent rec skater desiring a good level of durability and performance. Great pricepoint to be at for that level of play.

Entry Level (Reg. <$150) :

Year	BAUER VAPOR	BAUER SUPREME	BAUER NEXUS	CCM RIBCOR	CCM JETSPEED	CCM TACKS	EASTON|
2018	X300 (2017)	S25		n/a	FT340	9040	n/a
2017	X300 (2017)	S140	N5000	n/a	FT340	2092	n/a
2016	X300, X200	S140	N5000	40K	n/a	2092|	n/a
2015	X300, X200	140	Nexus 3000	40K	250	2052	n/a
2014	X40, X30	140	Nexus 3000	Reebok 22K	(unique line, different fit) RBZ 40	2052	n/a
2013	X40, X30	One.4	Nexus 200	Reebok 9K, 4K	(unique line, different fit) RBZ 40	n/a	Stealth 55S

[TBODY] [/TBODY]

This range caters to your beginner skater and casual rec-skater. In my opinion, one should opt for the level of skate one (or 2) above the very bottom in this range since I find that the level of performance/durability seems to be better disproportionally, though ultimately it’s up to you on how much $$ you want to spend. At this level, the level of heat mouldability is non-existent, so you’ll have to break them in the old-fashioned way.

As the years go by and technology improves, the level of skate has progressed with it. Today’s mid/low-mid level skates are almost always at or above the level of support and weight of traditional leather-made skates. For those old-timers moving from older skates such as original Tacks generations or the original Supremes, this isn’t always a positive. That’s why again, I stress the importance of trying skates on in person.

For children fitting into youth sizes, the type of fit should carry over and the ‘finger-in-the-back’ aid would still help. However, most manufacturers offer youth skates only in either 2 or 3 price-points and the same principal of better materials/stiffness still applies, though the youth skates almost never use the same materials as the Junior or Senior models and likely won't fit the same way either. Again, see which fits your child the best and is most comfortable.

Holder/Runner :

The skate holder (plastic chassis) also varies amongst manufacturers and among price-points. It’s important to note that when considering a holder replacement, sometimes the location of the rivet holes might not always match with the boot if you want to use a brand ‘x’ holder on a brand ‘y’ skate. A competent pro shop technician should be able to tell you whether or not it would be safe for them to re-drill holes.

The skate runner (steel), like the level of skate itself, varies according to brand and price-point. At the very low-end, there are runners featuring low-quality carbon-steel which will rust more easily, is heavier and won’t hold an edge as well and for as long. The stainless steel is the most common steel and as you move up, there will be lighter steel and so forth. It is important to note that low-end skates (ex. Vapor X50) will not allow you to remove the runner for replacement (it’s integrated into the holder). It is also important to note that you cannot always use brand ‘x’ runner on brand ‘y’ holder due to different configurations. Consult your pro shop technician for suggestions or alternatives or post a question here.

There are also aftermarket steel options (like Step Steel) that offer a higher quality product. I won't get into it here because it's a more advanced option, but feel free to ask about them!

Heat Molding/Baking :

As a rule of thumb, one should almost always opt to have new skates baked so that the break-in is shortened. All current skates save for the lowest-end models have internal foams that are heat sensitive enough to be able to form better around your foot. It is important to understand that baking WILL NOT make a poorly fitting skate fit any better. It simply increases comfort and minimizes the break-in period. After each subsequent bake however, it is also important to understand that the breakdown of the foams/liners is slightly accelerated. One shouldn’t have to bake skates more than 2-3 times.

Baking should be included as part of the cost of the skate as well. DO NOT bake skates yourself at home, as a proper skate oven at the proper temperature (a small compact convection oven) is always required. Baking at home has a very high risk of damaging the skate and voiding any warranties. If there is no other option, there are videos online telling you how, but do so at your own risk.

Note : Reebok skates with Pump are able to be baked provided that the air bladder is deflated before putting them in the skate oven and remain so on the foot.

Radius of Hollow, Sharpening Tips:

Now that your skates have been properly fitted (hopefully) and baked to your foot, the next step to every new skate purchase would be to sharpen them, which, like baking, should be included as part of the cost. This is necessary since skates come out of the factory unsharpened and you simply cannot skate on them.

Radius of Hollow (ROH, also referred to as ‘cut’) is simply how deep or shallow you would like your sharpening to be. ROH measures the depth of the groove between your 2 edges and comes in denominations from 1” (shallowest) to 3/8” (deepest) and can be asked for in increments of 1/16” (ex. 9/16”). The deeper the cut, the more bite or grip into the ice you will receive, at the expense of glide and vice-versa. For the most part, the ‘standard’ cut is 1/2” and if you’ve simply been dropping off skates to your local sharpener, that is your likely hollow. Most people stay in the range of 5/8” to 3/8” (think bell curve) and I wouldn’t suggest you stray away from that unless you know for sure what you’ll be getting and what you need. The cut, thus, is personal preference. I do, however, recommend that heavier-set players try a shallower cut as they can dig into the ice with the same force while lighter-set players could try the deeper cuts. There are also other types of cuts such as Flat Bottom V (FBV), Z-Channel etc. so consult your local shop or post a question here about those.

Even edges should be verified by EVERY sharpener with some sort of gauge, like a BAT gauge to ensure that they're level and that one edge is not higher than the other. Edges should be even down the length of the blade obviously. Some people like to try and balance a coin on the edge, but be careful to keep the blade/skate perfectly upright if you want to try this. Any blade or holder misalignment should be able to be identified by the sharpener as they can feel it and see it. You should be able to 'feel' the edges throughout. Some people use their fingernails but this is BS as steel will always be harder than your softer fingernails and will always scrape. I always use the middle parts of my fingers (not the tips, as they're too soft and squishy) to scrape perpendicularly along the edges to feel for them. Unsharpened or 'rounded' edges can be felt this way.

One should get skates sharpened after every 4-5 sessions or so. Again, this is up to personal preference and level of play. One should also note that outdoor ice is tougher on your edges as well. Also, make sure to never walk on areas other than the rubber layered floor as any other surface can ruin your edges; thus it’s a good idea to also invest in some skate guards. Take care of your skates as well. Make sure to wipe down the steel and holder after every session as the water can seep in and cause rusting and damage the steel.

Accessories :

Aside from a couple of general points, I'll also take the opportunity here to recommend some accessories that I really enjoy using. Not necessary of course, but some of these accessories can either improve performance (again, based on my experience), fit, comfort or all of the above. I've listed these products under each section below.

Socks :

Personal preference, but generally it is advisable to go with thinner socks for better comfort and feel of the ice in my opinion. Avoid ankle socks obviously. For those not looking to buy a pair of hockey-specific socks, there’s always the option of dress socks.

Stable 26 (Could help with: Fit, Performance) -
http://stable26.com/shop/hockey/
Stable 26 socks feature 2 'L' shaped silicone inserts (avail. in different thicknesses) designed to improve fit in the area of the foot where the Peroneal tendons are; the area of the foot below and behind the ankle bone. In helping take up negative space above the heel, this product could help improve the fit of a skate (i.e. if the heel/ankle lock is poor), leading to greater stability, comfort and energy transfer/improvement.

Personally, I'm a big fan of this product because even though my skates fit well, the extra heel lock the pads provide allows better energy transfer in my strides as well as allowing me to loosen the upper eyelets and thus achieve a deeper knee bend. I would imagine this product could help those whose skates don't fit as well around the ankles/heel.

Laces :

Again, personal preference, but it is generally advisable to replace stock laces with another hockey-specific brand one (ex. Elite Hockey, Sidelines Sports, Howies etc.). Bauer stock laces are notoriously horrible while one could conceivably get away with sticking to CCM/Reebok or Easton ones. Wax laces simply offer more grip so that the boot doesn’t loosen as much over the course of the game.

Footbeds :

The necessity of after market footbeds (ex. ShockDoctor, Superfeet etc.) is of some debate and there is no set guideline for requiring them. Some people require orthotics, there are footbeds for heel support and there are arch support products. For more details, post in this thread!

Superfeet Yellow/Carbon (Could help with: Comfort, Performance) -
YELLOW | Insoles & Sandals | Superfeet Insoles & Footwear
CARBON Pro Hockey | Insoles & Sandals | Superfeet Insoles & Footwear
The main idea of Superfeet is that it is a heel stabilizing footbed (i.e. NOT arch support) with an arch/heel structure that aims to keep a foot in it's natural profile while inside the skate. In keeping the heel stabilized, it helps prevent the pronation and supination of the foot and leg. In layman's terms, it helps keep the foot 'aligned' with the knee and leg such that the energy transfer in each stride is optimized and not lost in the lateral movement of pronation/supination.

I've said before that Superfeet Yellow was probably the best hockey-related purchase I've ever made. Even though my skates have always fit fine, putting Superfeet in helped me feel and control my edges much much better; for me it was night and day. I found that regaining control of edges after stumbling was much easier when I pushed off because the heel was stabilized. Backwards crossovers and transitions became much easier as well.

A few things to note though:
- Superfeet is not for everyone as each person's foot shape is different. That's why their 90-day guarantee is key; if you don't like them/feel no benefit, return them to the retailer for a full refund. I've done this with a pair of Greens that just didn't work for me, with no issue.
- Be mindful of sizing; it is sized to the HEEL, not to one's skate/shoe size. They size based on letters (i.e. A to G) with each consecutive letter being a larger heel cup size. You would size such that when placing your foot in them on the ground, the heel is flush with the lip of the heel (i.e. no 'muffin tops'). Trim the rest of the insole in accordance to the existing insole of your skate/shoe.
- Allow several skates to fully adjust to the new feel. The first time for me was incredibly awkward!
- It does take up some volume of the skate; if your skate is too shallow for your foot/you are borderline, try them in-person first!

Toecap :

Powerfoot inserts (Could help with: Comfort, Performance) -
Feel more power in your stride. POWERFOOT inserts by Adrenaline.
The idea here is that these foam inserts are to be placed inside the upper surface of the toecap, such that one's toes/front part of the foot doesn't lift when skating. In keeping that part of the foot down, the idea then is that energy transfer is optimized when taking strides.

For me at first, I was skeptical in the benefits of using these. My toes were a bit more comfortable for sure, but it took a couple skates for me to really notice the benefits. Specifically, when doing crossovers, crossover starts, or transitions, I notice that the insert does indeed keep the foot down, which in turn helped with stability in that area. When combined with a well-fitting skate, Superfeet and Stable 26 socks, it really was if the skate was a true extension of the foot. Their 30 day guarantee helps too.

Miscellaneous :

Buying Used - Not a bad option for those on a budget or for kids, but only if they fit well and are in good condition. As with all used product, try before you decide and inspect. Pay particular attention to the amount of steel that is left, as a skate that comes with very little blade (ie. very short and ground down, like a banana shape) would soon require replacement at around $70 for the pair. Also pay attention to the stiffness/condition of the tendon guard, eyelets, and the outsole for any cracking or looseness.

Pro Stock - Most pro stock skates are so heavily customized (see below) that they fit that particular player’s foot the best and not necessarily yours. The skate itself might not even resemble it’s retail counterpart anymore! Only consider if you’ve tried them on/know exactly what you’re looking for in a skate.

Custom - An option for the high end player or the player willing to drop the cash (typically an upcharge above the retail price, up to dealer, and only on certain models of top end skates). There are also some skaters with ‘abnormally’ sized feet (ie. Very very wide or narrow, differently sized feet) requiring this route as well. For custom skates, contact your local shop and they will guide you through the process.

Buying Online vs. Buying In-Store :

I'm sure many of you guys live in areas without a good selection of brick-and-mortar shops to head to for trying on skates, hence the popularity of larger online hockey retailers like MonkeySports, Pure Hockey, Hockey Giant and Total Hockey among others. The best thing is to always head to your nearest store offering a decent selection and service in order to find the best fitting skate for you and to have the services available for it. For the most part, I typically recommend that people make a day trip if it's within some distance to try on skates because it's impossible to know which one will fit your foot simply by looking online.

For those of you without that option, I recommend seeking out online retailers with a good return policy that will allow you to return any skate that does not fit. You would order a few pairs of skates that fit within your budget/needs, try them on at home, and then return the ones that don't fit as well. Keep in mind that you still have to take them somewhere to get them heat molded and sharpened for the first time, so factor in this time and cost of these services. There are formal videos out there that show you how to bake skates at home. I do not recommend you do this unless there is no other alternative possible. Bear in mind that this voids warranties if you mess up the bake.

Conclusion :

I must stress that this guide is no replacement for a competent fitter. Nor should it be your only reference if you must resort to online shopping. The privilege of having the help of a good fitter and the availability of actually trying on skates yourself cannot be surpassed. This guide is simply meant to be an introductory read into skate shopping.

Speaking of a competent fitter, for those you in reasonable proximity of a shop, head there now. If you want to see whether or not you should trust the person assisting you, simply ask them what the ‘best’ skate for you would be. If their response centres around ‘best skate = best fit’ and they have a good attitude/seem to know what they’re doing, then by all means give them your support. If not, then go elsewhere or seek out a more knowledgeable associate. Also, remember not to judge a book by its cover

 

[Canadiens1958]

Link to previous here:

Part I http://hfboards.mandatory.com/showthread.php?t=1099867
Part II http://hfboards.mandatory.com/showthread.php?t=1551087
Part III https://hfboards.mandatory.com/threads/skates-buying-guide-and-advice-iii.1892297/

 

[garnetpalmetto]

Continue here

 

[AIREAYE]

Thanks garnetpalmetto! I definitely let it ride on for too long.

 

[jorbjorb]

Finally got my S180's. Thanks for the help boys they are amazing.

 

[1972]

I've been fitted for 6.5D in the Nexus skate, do you think I can fit into the CCM Super Tacks or CCM Jetspeeds? are they similar?

 

[1972]

Is the Nexus N9000 a better skate then the 2N9000?

 

[BruinDust]

Is the Nexus N9000 a better skate then the 2N9000?

There is no "2N9000".

Top of the Nexus line is now the 2N. Which compared to the previous gen N9000, they would be "better" in a sense they are the next generation of that model and price point of skate, both being in that $700-800 price point.

Note that there is no $1000 price point skate in the Nexus line this year.

If you comparing the N9000 to the new Nexus 2900, then the N9000 is the higher end skate.

But keep in mind newer isn't always better. For example, I prefer the 2013-14 Nexus 7000 over its next-gen equivalent the N9000. Just a better fit for my foot.

Also keep in mind that you can probably find the N9000 on clearance at a much lesser price than the 2N. Certainly from a value standpoint your getting more value as the difference between the two skates isn't drastic and you'll pay considerably less for a N9000 on clearance than the new 2N at full price.

 

[1972]

The Nexus N9000 is $499 in Canada and the N2900 is $449. What is the better buy?

The Super Tacks are $499 and Jetspeed FT385 are $299.

 

[puckpilot]

What is the better buy?

The better buy is the one that fits you properly. I mean you've been fitted for Nexus which is for a wider foot type, so getting into a pair of Jetspeeds might be a tall order.

All skate lines will fit differently. Sometimes the differences are minor and won't matter for the individual. Sometimes they're deal breakers. The only way to tell is to put the skates on.

For example last year's Supreme 1s skate line fits me quite well, but the supreme line from the year before that, not so much. So it wouldn't matter how good a deal I got on the older models.

Thus, the best deal would always be the newer skate, because they fit me better. Find the skate that fits best then worry about best deal.

 

[1972]

Ugh they all fit me terribly. Might just bite the bullet and go with True.

 

[1972]

Ended up with the CCM Super Tacks . On paper the Nexus should have been the best fit, but in reality the Super Tacks felt by far the best for me.

 

[Cams]

Here is a general question, as I am kind of out of the loop with skate tech lately.

I have Vapor XXIX or XXVI? They were 2nd or 3rd from the top line at the time (it was those or RBK 9K). Probably close to 10 yrs old. Boot structure is solid, and they have the original stock footbeds. I only play 1/week right now, but what I notice is that the outside of my big toe feels like it is rubbing on the inside of the skate (toe cap?) and sometimes can feel the rivet that is under the ball of foot area. I was fitted for S190 the other day (on sale right now at a great price by the way) and despite being super stiff (as a new skate is) they did feel quite good. Obviously, they'd have to be baked, etc and broken in. I did find my one foot had a pressure spot on the outside middle of my foot, that I suspect would go away with a bake. I also get a discount as I have a connection at this particular shop. So...looking under $500. I'd probably get the superfeet as well.

I was wondering....is it really necessary though? I am 45 now and plan to keep playing (it's a decent pace group I play with) as long as I can. If I just replace the footbeds with some high end superfeet ($60?) would this solve the problem? I always felt my current skates could fit better and now am noticing the issue mentioned above.

Any thoughts from the skate experts?

 

[AIREAYE]

A few things to consider.

- have you tried other skate fits to see if they're better?
- if they indeed fit well (great heel lock, minimal negative space around the ankles and midfoot etc.), then the pressure spot should go away with a full bake (or two as I like to recommend for high end skates) and break-in. At worst if it doesn't after a reasonable amount of time, the skate can be stretched or punched out in that area
- The carbon composite materials in this skate and all top end skates these days are highly heat moldable, so as long as you get a decent fit out of box, particularly heel lock, and forefoot width, the rest should come together.
- I highly recommend Superfeet as you may have read. As everyone's foot is different, SF may indeed change how your foot sits inside the skate (it may worsen or correct that pressure spot, or have no effect), hence I always recommend baking your skates with Superfeet (take existing insole out, put the skate in the over and once done, put the SF in and get your skates on as normal) to have the skate contour around it and your foot
- Is it necessary? I'd say you're getting a good deal for a top-end model that should ideally last you several years. I would pounce because you're going to have to replace your Vapors soon.

 

[Filthy Dangles]

Ended up with the CCM Super Tacks . On paper the Nexus should have been the best fit, but in reality the Super Tacks felt by far the best for me.

for future reference, seems like Supreme would have been the Bauer analogue for you if you like the fit of Tacks

 

[1972]

for future reference, seems like Supreme would have been the Bauer analogue for you if you like the fit of Tacks

For some reason I’ve never been able to find a Bauer skate that fit me well in the life. I’ve always ended with with CCM or Reebok.

 

[AIREAYE]

For some reason I’ve never been able to find a Bauer skate that fit me well in the life. I’ve always ended with with CCM or Reebok.

CCM's changed the fit of all of their skates over the past several years. Not a good time to rely on that loyalty!

 

[Grodon]

My son's skate coach came up to me the other day and told me to get his skates re-fitted, so I bring him to where I usually go, and turns out the skates are 2 sizes too big for him.

Lesson: It's really hard to get proper feedback from a kid, so take the skate's footbed out, and have him stand on it to see.

 

[Dueling Banjos]

I am going to miss lace lock once i ll be forced to buy new pair of skates.

My feet are very narrow so i appreciate this option, my heel remains locked down, while top remains semi- loose.

 

[puckpilot]

I just recently noticed that my skates felt a little weird after sharpening. Felt like I was pitched forward more than usual and I wasn't as stable. I thought it was all in my head until I swapped into my back up steel and things felt normal again. I then compared my current steel to my back up pair and saw what's in the pictures below. Both sets of steel are the exact same age, bought within a week of one another. The one on the bottom has only been ground twice. Once to a 12' radius and then to a 13' radius. The steel on top has only been profiled once to a 12' radius and then sharpened approximately 8 times.

I know the two blades are different radii, but Is this much steel supposed to be missing on the toes and heel after 8 sharpenings? Any opinions and/or insight would greatly be appreciated. I don't want to bitch and moan to the shop unless I'm sure.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Dueling Banjos]

I developed nasty pain on the lower side of ankle bone (both sides but left is way worse) and it seems that it's inflamed for good now, also slightly swollen. Ankle is working properly otherwise so there was no sprain, twist, over stretch or any other mechanical injury. Skates, Ribcor 50k, are about year and a half old, never had any problems, fit is snug and they felt great until recently and it's getting worse every time i am out on the ice now.

I ll try some insoles today to slightly elevate my feet inside and hopefully change/move the pressure point. Other than that i have no idea what to do.

 

[puckpilot]

I ll try some insoles today to slightly elevate my feet inside and hopefully change/move the pressure point. Other than that i have no idea what to do.

You could try bunga pads. Or gel pads.

 

[Dueling Banjos]

You could try bunga pads. Or gel pads.

I forgot to mention that i tried those and it didn't help one bit, it seems that it only applied more pressure.

Looks like i ll have to wait for few weeks so it calms down and then try again.

Thanks anyway.

 

[AIREAYE]

Why not rebake them at a shop and 'squeeze out' that area? A more permanent solution may be to take them to that shop to punch out that hotspot.