OT: Chess

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I don't play as much as I used to, but when I do, I play on lichess. It's by far the best chess platform out there IMO, it's free and it's browser based. The best interface, the slickest to see and join tournaments and the most innovative.

As for chess channels, I like agadmator as mentioned by OP, I also watch some GingerGM (he's a funny dude) and chessbrahs, while I used to watch Chessnetwork alot.

I'm currently rated 1870 or something in FIDE, I usually hover around 1800-2000 in blitz online. I don't have any plans to improve that much by studying theory, since I only play for fun.

I prefer the english opening as white, since when I started playing in a club, I would get slaughtered by my opponents otherwise, since they were much better than me and knew everything about the d4 and e4 openings. As black I prefer a Caro-Kann or slav system, but sometimes I dabble with a sicilian (since I'm an english player as white anyway).

I agree if you want to improve your chess, you should study end games. Very many games are lost or won in this crucial part and even good players are surprisingly inept in this aspect. I also wouldn't recommend a beginner or someone starting in club chess to start with the english opening as I did, as it's a very positional opening. It's better to start with a more tactical opening.
 
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Against the English I’ve been trying the Caro-Kann, 1...c6. White can play 2.Nf3 or 2.e4 (the Accelerated Panov Attack), then 2...d5.
You may like this B13 game.
The Weekly Show: Fischer vs Petrosian revived

...I prefer the english opening as white, since when I started playing in a club, I would get slaughtered by my opponents otherwise, since they were much better than me and knew everything about the d4 and e4 openings. As black I prefer a Caro-Kann or slav system, but sometimes I dabble with a sicilian (since I'm an english player as white anyway). I agree if you want to improve your chess, you should study end games. Very many games are lost or won in this crucial part and even good players are surprisingly inept in this aspect. I also wouldn't recommend a beginner or someone starting in club chess to start with the english opening as I did, as it's a very positional opening. It's better to start with a more tactical opening.
You're a good player and you make good points. I'm a club chess novice who decided to use a more tactical White opening this week. I like the solid Caro-Kann and Slav systems as Black also. You may enjoy these Marin English articles.
NEW: Marin’s English Love
A lifetime love for the English
 
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Larsen vs Spassky in The USSR vs the World. The Top 10 players half a century ago were:


If you could play like any player besides Fischer, Kasparov, and Carlsen, who would it be? I guess I'd take the magical Mikhail Tal who was a chess wizard. Overall record: +1115 -295 =1276 (65.3%)!
 
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Larsen vs Spassky in The USSR vs the World. The Top 10 players half a century ago were:


If you could play like any player besides Fischer, Kasparov, and Carlsen, who would it be? I guess I'd take:

1. The magical Mikhail Tal was a chess wizard. Overall record: +1115 -295 =1276 (65.3%)!
2. Anand - I like his tactical style.
3. Kramnik - He's a super solid positional player who was very hard to play against. His Berlin Defense against Kasparov was brilliant.
I’ve been watching a lot of Hikaru Nakamura and Daniel Naroditsky on chess.com. 3-minute Blitz games. The stuff they do is wild. Hikaru just eclipsed 3300 the other day.
 
I’ve been watching a lot of Hikaru Nakamura and Daniel Naroditsky on chess.com. 3-minute Blitz games. The stuff they do is wild. Hikaru just eclipsed 3300 the other day.
He's the best blitz player ever. He's my favorite American since Fischer. Another American (Caruana?) would have to win the title to make me reconsider.
 
I’ve been watching a lot of Hikaru Nakamura and Daniel Naroditsky on chess.com. 3-minute Blitz games. The stuff they do is wild. Hikaru just eclipsed 3300 the other day.

I watched Nakamura go 12-0 against another grandmaster a few days ago. Just nuts how good he is at blitz.
 
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Larsen vs Spassky in The USSR vs the World. The Top 10 players half a century ago were:


If you could play like any player besides Fischer, Kasparov, and Carlsen, who would it be? I guess I'd take:

1. The magical Mikhail Tal was a chess wizard. Overall record: +1115 -295 =1276 (65.3%)!
2. Anand - I like his tactical style.
3. Kramnik - He's a super solid positional player who was very hard to play against. His Berlin Defense against Kasparov was brilliant.

I would go with Tal or Petrosian for sure. Two tactical geniuses, but used their vision in exactly opposite ways. One played like a lunatic genius, and the other is one of the absolute hardest players to defeat, ever.

"You must take your opponent into a deep, dark forest where 2+2=5, and the path leading out is only wide enough for one." - Mikhail Tal

Not how I play the game, but it's a pretty boss quote.
 
I would go with Tal or Petrosian for sure. Two tactical geniuses, but used their vision in exactly opposite ways. One played like a lunatic genius, and the other is one of the absolute hardest players to defeat, ever. "You must take your opponent into a deep, dark forest where 2+2=5, and the path leading out is only wide enough for one." - Mikhail Tal Not how I play the game, but it's a pretty boss quote.
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The USSR vs the World



Kramnik was hard to beat. Kasparov said of Kramnik that: <”He is the hardest player to beat in the world.”> Petrosian +695 -159 =1063 (64.0%)! You may enjoy this Petrosian game. His opponent was a pretty good player.
 
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Posting this here for reference:

Please understand that these classifications are the subjective viewpoints of the United States Chess League. Many players that are classified could reasonably be listed under 3-4 of these headings. We tried to choose that category which fit each player the most.

Technical:
A technical player will usually play the same openings repeatedly and know them extremely well. Usually these systems are positionally based and they know the strategical ideas extremely well. They may become uncomfortable when confronted with a new and unfamiliar position, however they usually do everything they can to aim for the positions they understand. Sometimes they make even make concessions to avoid being attacked or giving up counterplay, even if this may not be the objectively correct decision. Despite this, they are hard to play against, because you feel like you are always playing into their strongpoints. Almost all technical player's seem to have an incredible overall chess understanding. It's a very practical style of play that's used by some of the most active and successful players in the nation, and it's almost impossible to be a "techincal" player, without being very strong, as it requires too much chess understanding for lower rated players to use successfully.

Examples - GM Igor Novikov, GM Alex Wojtkiewicz, IM John Donaldson


Positional:

Positional Players are a bit different than technical players. Postional players are more versatile in their opening choices and simply rely on their general chess understanding to find the right solution in all positions. The difference between a "positional" player and a "technical" player is almost psychological, as the positional player's simply don't go out of their way to avoid unfamiliar positions, or positions in which they are being attacked. Despite all this, positional players may be easier to face if you have a tactical nature, as it's usually a bit easier to steer the game towards your style.

Examples - GM Yasser Seirawan, GM Joel Benjamin, GM Julio Becerra

Attacking:
Attacking players feel comfortable with the initiative. They want to be always attacking the opponent, and depending on whether they are, their strength may vary by quite a bit. Some attackers don't even have to be great calculators, but instead just have a natural understanding of how to conduct an attack.
Attackers may have some difficulty against technical players, who often don't even give the attackers a chance to get started, and thus steer them into positions they aren't comfortable in. However if the attacking player ever manages to mix it up against the more technical types, the attacker stands a great chance of landing a knockout. Their games can be very entertaining as you know there is always a good chance for some fireworks.

Examples - GM Larry Christiansen, WIM Jenn Shahade, FM Dmitry Zilberstein


Calculating:
Calculating players generally work very hard at the board. Even though their general chess intuition may not be the greatest, they make up for it by pure and raw calculation power. You can almost feel their brains going overtime as you sit across from them. They try to always see one move further then their opponent, and are ready to pounce if you make just the slightest miscalculation. These players may often work so hard throughout the game that they end up in serious time trouble. Some of the toughest players to play against are technical players who are also strong calculators.

Examples - GM Alex Ivanov, GM Gregory Kaidanov, GM Walter Browne

Tricky:
There is something about the way a tricky player plays that's very disconcerting. Repeatedly they will play moves that you didn't even consider and that just flat out look weird, to the extent that it may become very confusing for you. They never give up, and are constantly looking for ways to trap and attack you. These types of players are usually very entertaining because of their resourceful and imaginative style. They can be differentiated from calculating and attacking players mainly by the unorthodox nature of their play.

Examples - GM Alex Shabalov, Julian Hodgson, GM Pavel Blatny, IM Yuri Lapshun

Dynamic:
Dynamic players are usually pretty well rounded, but lean more towards the aggressive/tactical side. They often play enterprising openings and try to simply outplay you. They aren't scared to mix things up and are usually fighting constantly. Dynamic players are well rounded enough to not feel too uncomfortable if the position should be strategical or dry. Sometimes they may play the same openings game after game, however they are different than technical players because their opening choices are a lot more double-edged.

Examples - GM Hikaru Nakamura, GM Nick DeFirmian, FM David Pruess

Practical:

These players have a little bit of edge to their game. They understand that chess is a game, and the object is to do everything possible to win and not always to find the absolute best move. They often will play very quickly to put clock related pressure on you, and will often understand and avoid your strength's. They usually will play openings they are very familiar with. Technical players are often very practical as well, however they are usually a lot more limited in their opening choices, whereas practical players can play a more types of postions comfortably.
Despite being comfortable in more types of openings, these players often have serious holes in their theoretical knowledge. They just hope to get a reasonable position out of the opening without spending too much time, and then to simply outplay you.

Examples - GM Leonid Yudasin, IM Jay Bonin

Intuitive:

These are a weird group of players. You get the sense that they simply understand where the pieces belong, whether the game is positional or tactical in nature. They may not be the best pure calculators, but they make up for it by moving quickly and confidently and being able to easily found solutions where others may have to spend a lot more time. Their reliance on their intuition may sometimes be a weakness as they trust their instincts too much when the position demands harder work.

Examples - GM John Fedorowicz

Logical:

Logical player's seem to try very hard to try to understand the position they are playing from a logical perspective. They are pretty solid at all phases of the game but usually not spectacular at any. They are good at adapting to unfamiliar position's and approaching them with a fresh mind as they have no preconceptions of what type's of positions they would like to play, and instead try to find the objective best move. These players won't often try anything too unorthodox, however they also won't shy away from complications if they are necessary.

Examples - GM Jonathan Rowson, IM Vinay Bhat

Young:

Often young players have not yet developed a sense of style. It's very rare that you will find a positional young player, however they often develop into positional players when they mature. For this reason, some young players will go unclassified until their style develops more.
 
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@aufheben

I just spent 45 short minutes powering through whatever lines of the English Opening: Mikenas-Carls, Flohr Variation I was able to punch into chessbase. I have a new obsession!
 
Marin's English Love

"Marin mentions in the beginning this repertoire is based on 1.c4 followed by 2.g3. Obviously the move 2.g3 has the advantage to avoid the lines where Black plays ♝b4, such as after: 1.c4 e5 2.♘c3 ♝b4"

A lifetime love for the English
I bought the book "The dynamic english" by Tony Kosten in the early 2000s. He's a very lazy chess player and so am I. That's perhaps the best thing about the english, not much happens that are novelties, compared to other openings. When you know the opening, you can play your dinosaur opening moves for decades on, without much fear.

He also favours 2. g3 as white to avoid many complications. When you have fianchetto'd the white bishop, black playing Bb4 isn't a problem anymore, as your knight on 4. Nc3 can simply play into d5. If black captures your now placed d5 knight with his knight on f6, you simply take back with the c4 pawn. This might lead into one of the few opening traps in the english. Many black players carelessly play d6 to block your d5 pawn, which leads to Qa4+, winning the black bishop on b4, as black cannot play the natural Nc6 to block the check and protect the b4 bishop. The unusual pawn on d5 stops that.

In some cases you can also play Qc2, a common theme in the sicilian as well (Qc7). You just have to keep track of the black knight on c6, so it can't immediately attack the queen with tempo.

I often end up in a Botvinnik system (pawns on c4, d3 and e4), where I place my g1 knight on e2, preparing either d4 or f4, supported by the e2 knight (that is almost always the preferred piece to take back with if black takes the pawn).

If black plays his white bishop to g4, to pin the knight against the queen, playing the knight to e2 has another advantage: you can simply play f3. If the knight was on its natural square f3, this wouldn't be possible.

You could play h3 instead of course, which also gives a nice safety square on h2 for the castled king. It can also help the g2 bishop to defend h3, if black puts up a battery with the bishop and queen against h3.

Should you have your knight on e2, black plays Bg4, you play h3, black plays Bh5, you also have the opportunity to play g4, black plays Bg6, you can follow up with Ng3 and then Nf5. Very annoying for black if they allow it.

One problem with this fairly aggressive king side attack in the english, is of course that your king isn't that well protected. Should black end up with pigs (Chessnetwork expression for rooks on the 7th row), you might be in trouble. You also have to take care into keeping track of the black square diagonal from c5 to g1, either by making the black square bishop a defensive piece, or by other well placed pieces.

That's another tip, always have respect for open rook lines. You should take control of the rook line, or at least counter it. You cannot allow your opponent to dominate an open rook line and expect to not be punished for it. That's a classic beginner's mistake.

The english is almost made for a queen side attack, but I can't help myself, I prefer center and king side attacks with the english, when both sides have castled short. The attack isn't fast, it's more of slowly rolling rumbling siege equipment up the hill (pawn advances supported by pieces).
 
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These are some great games. I think sometimes casual fans forget how great the pre-Fischer players are. I'm totally sold on the English, but I want to get better first. I'm doing puzzles and lessons, then I'll play AI, then real players.
 


These are some great games. I think sometimes casual fans forget how great the pre-Fischer players are. I'm totally sold on the English, but I want to get better first. I'm doing puzzles and lessons, then I'll play AI, then real players.

While it's fun to watch how the pros play, I would highly recommend watching alot of these kind of analysis; a good player giving criticism to lower rated players and their game:



The great players never make the mistakes us mortals do and we never get to see why certain moves are bad.
 
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As for other chess fundamentals, you have to get a solid understanding of the fundamentals until you can break them. It's like a language, you need to stick to the grammatic rules until you know when you don't have to follow the grammar and write poetry. Then your poetry can be shit or great, but stick to the basics at first.

Like how early do you need to castle? Beginners should focus on quick piece development and castle early, but when you get a feeling for a position, you can at least hold your castling until later for continued initiative, or if the exchanges are violent, not castle at all and keep your king central for the end game. The king becomes an attacking piece as soon as there is no danger of getting mated and you want your king to be active in the action in the endgame ASAP. The biggest concern until the late game is the king can disrupt coherence between heavy pieces, especially the rooks.

Should I move a piece hindering my own pawn chain, especially the d and e pawns? Absolutely not. But in some cases, you can, because they serve a purpose greater than hindering your central pawn advances. Also, alot of players play a3/h3 or a6/h6 way too early, being intimidated by a possible pin. No, don't play passive moves, that's how you quickly start to suffer in a chess game. Play the move when you have to, you have to be alert of the purpose of the move of an opponent, not only your own. Why counter a pin when the pin isn't even physically possible?

Having the initiative in a chess game is imperative to winning. When your opponent has to react to your moves, you're in the driver seat, but don't overextend. You cannot fake strength on a chess board if you cannot deliver. It's very, VERY common to overextend an attack and an initiative, only to be countered with devastating effect against your own ranks. My advice as a positional player is it's always better to smother a counter before you initiate the full attack yourself. I've learnt this by painful experience.

You cannot learn a system move by move, you have to learn the structure, the weaknesses and the strengths. You have to identify the central squares you're fighting for - and knowing when to give that square up for another counter or plan.

Always look at diagonals and lines. A queen moving in the diagonal of your king or a bishop moving into the diagonal of your queen, two pieces away is still a strong consideration to look into. One move away and you might still be in trouble, because your defending piece is pinned and the opposing piece is wreaking havoc on another position of the board.

My best advice for lower rated players is to ALWAYS look at 3 candidate moves. One might look obvious, one might look interesting and one might look bonkers. Still, look at it. It's the bonkers moves that open up tactics that both sides missed. That's why I wouldn't recommend lower rated players to play fast paced chess if you want to improve. You don't have time to look at the position. For fun? Sure, play. For improving? f*** no. You will never learn. At least play 15-20 minute games to give yourself time.

As for spacial awareness of the board and raw calculation - as you always have to imagine what your opponent will play if you play a move - try blind chess. You might suck at it, but it forces you to imagine pieces on a board that are only in your mind. That's your quickest way to develop this part of the brain to speed up raw calculation and space awareness.

A big way of winning chess is focusing on weaknesses of your opponent, either by their mistake, or by maneuvering so they are forced to create those weaknesses. Losing tempo is sometimes worth it to create a weakness to later attack. Even losing control of squares can be worth it to improve your pieces.

ALWAYS look for weaknesses in the opposing structure. Weaknesses are pieces and squares that have to be defended by pieces and not pawns. Move pieces into weak squares and much will be gained.

If you're looking for a mate, you need at least three pieces. One possible sacrifice and the other two need cooperation. Many times do I see bad players attack with a single piece, with a threat that isn't even there. Don't try to attack when there is no support.
I noticed my winning % is slightly higher with black, and two of my best games were with black.
This is very common and I can identify with this. It was the same for me as a lower rated player. It's easier to hold the fort and counter, instead of being the side - white - that usually carries the initiative. Being black is staying defensively solid, waiting for a mistake and if you're unsure as white what your plan is, chances are black will hold the fort, counter mistakes and win.

The higher up you go in rating, the more important playing white is, but yes, I also preferred black as a 1400-1500 player and had greater success there than as white. But as a 1800+ player, I prefer white, no questions asked. It's part of the development. In lower rated chess, the colours don't matter that much, but I also preferred black and had greater success with Caro-Kann and the slav than I had with the english opening.
 
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As for other chess fundamentals, you have to get a solid understanding of the fundamentals until you can break them. It's like a language, you need to stick to the grammatic rules until you know when you don't have to follow the grammar and write poetry. Then your poetry can be shit or great, but stick to the basics at first.

Like how early do you need to castle? Beginners should focus on quick piece development and castle early, but when you get a feeling for a position, you can at least hold your castling until later for continued initiative, or if the exchanges are violent, not castle at all and keep your king central for the end game. The king becomes an attacking piece as soon as there is no danger of getting mated and you want your king to be active in the action in the endgame ASAP. The biggest concern until the late game is the king can disrupt coherence between heavy pieces, especially the rooks.

Should I move a piece hindering my own pawn chain, especially the d and e pawns? Absolutely not. But in some cases, you can, because they serve a purpose greater than hindering your central pawn advances. Also, alot of players play a3/h3 or a6/h6 way too early, being intimidated by a possible pin. No, don't play passive moves, that's how you quickly start to suffer in a chess game. Play the move when you have to, you have to be alert of the purpose of the move of an opponent, not only your own. Why counter a pin when the pin isn't even physically possible?

Having the initiative in a chess game is imperative to winning. When your opponent has to react to your moves, you're in the driver seat, but don't overextend. You cannot fake strength on a chess board if you cannot deliver. It's very, VERY common to overextend an attack and an initiative, only to be countered with devastating effect against your own ranks. My advice as a positional player is it's always better to smother a counter before you initiate the full attack yourself. I've learnt this by painful experience.

You cannot learn a system move by move, you have to learn the structure, the weaknesses and the strengths. You have to identify the central squares you're fighting for - and knowing when to give that square up for another counter or plan.

Always look at diagonals and lines. A queen moving in the diagonal of your king or a bishop moving into the diagonal of your queen, two pieces away is still a strong consideration to look into. One move away and you might still be in trouble, because your defending piece is pinned and the opposing piece is wreaking havoc on another position of the board.

My best advice for lower rated players is to ALWAYS look at 3 candidate moves. One might look obvious, one might look interesting and one might look bonkers. Still, look at it. It's the bonkers moves that open up tactics that both sides missed. That's why I wouldn't recommend lower rated players to play fast paced chess if you want to improve. You don't have time to look at the position. For fun? Sure, play. For improving? f*** no. You will never learn. At least play 15-20 minute games to give yourself time.

As for spacial awareness of the board and raw calculation - as you always have to imagine what your opponent will play if you play a move - try blind chess. You might suck at it, but it forces you to imagine pieces on a board that are only in your mind. That's your quickest way to develop this part of the brain to speed up raw calculation and space awareness.

A big way of winning chess is focusing on weaknesses of your opponent, either by their mistake, or by maneuvering so they are forced to create those weaknesses. Losing tempo is sometimes worth it to create a weakness to later attack. Even losing control of squares can be worth it to improve your pieces.

ALWAYS look for weaknesses in the opposing structure. Weaknesses are pieces and squares that have to be defended by pieces and not pawns. Move pieces into weak squares and much will be gained.

If you're looking for a mate, you need at least three pieces. One possible sacrifice and the other two need cooperation. Many times do I see bad players attack with a single piece, with a threat that isn't even there. Don't try to attack when there is no support.

This is very common and I can identify with this. It was the same for me as a lower rated player. It's easier to hold the fort and counter, instead of being the side - white - that usually carries the initiative. Being black is staying defensively solid, waiting for a mistake and if you're unsure as white what your plan is, chances are black will hold the fort, counter mistakes and win.

The higher up you go in rating, the more important playing white is, but yes, I also preferred black as a 1400-1500 player and had greater success there than as white. But as a 1800+ player, I prefer white, no questions asked. It's part of the development. In lower rated chess, the colours don't matter that much, but I also preferred black and had greater success with Caro-Kann and the slav than I had with the english opening.

All of these posts and tips are greatly appreciated!
 
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"Belgrade: Narrow win for the USSR
4/3/2020 – The fourth and final round of the "Match of the Century" between the USSR and the "Rest of the World" in Belgrade ended with a 5:5 tie. Larsen (against Stein) and Uhlmann (against Taimanov) scored for the "World" while Smyslov (against Olafsson) and Keres (against Ivkov) scored for the USSR. In the end the USSR won the match 20.5:19.5, with the narrowest possible margin. The battle is over and it was indeed a unique intellectual fight. The best players of the Soviet Union played a match over 20 games against the best players from the "Rest of the World". The battlefield was the Yugoslavian capital Belgrade – neutral ground, so to speak. The USSR had no less than five world champions in its team: Botvinnik, Smyslov, Tal, Petrosian and Spassky. The other five players also belong to the world's best and are possible world championship contenders: Keres, Korchnoi, Taimanov, Polugaevsky and Geller." Belgrade: Narrow win for the USSR

A one point victory by all those higher rated former champs of the USSR is really a World victory to me.
 
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"Grischuk wins memorable Linares Tournament. Dark horse wins fighting event

Fighting chess was the rule that year, despite only 15 out of 56 games ended decisively. Radjabov and Ivanchuk still used the King's Indian Defence on a regular basis; sharp variations of the Semi-Slav were being explored; a young Carlsen still had the Dragon in his repertoire; Anand accepted Grischuk's poisoned pawn out of a Najdorf in round thirteen; and Aronian's creative style was in full swing throughout the event." Throwback Thursday: Grischuk wins memorable Linares Tournament

I'd love to see these guys still playing those openings. Grischuk was only the 7th seed. I miss Linares.
 
I did a little research and imho these 5 dominated their eras the most:

1. Alekhine
2. Capablanca
3. Lasker
4. Fischer
5. Kasparov
 
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