take a shot whenever you can. The ball spins so much in the air it's almost impossible for the goalie to adjust in time to the curve the ball will take in the air.
is it better to use a wood, composite, or abs blade? I know abs tend to hold up longer, but the surface I usually play on is pretty easy on blades in general.
One thing I've noticed is that a lot of people seem to play without taping their sticks. I tried it recently and it does seem to help.
is it better to use a wood, composite, or abs blade? I know abs tend to hold up longer, but the surface I usually play on is pretty easy on blades in general.
Anyone use a composite blade for ball hockey? So far I've only used wood and ABS. I'm wondering if it's worth it to spring for a good composite blade (or if it even makes a difference with ball hockey).
Normal passing just does not work as well in general in ball hockey, the ball bounces, and nothing is as clean and fast as in ice hockey. Dump and chase is a great play in ball hockey, or high passes that can be gloved down. Still make plenty of normal passes, but in general favour dump and chase a more than you would in ice hockey, especially since there is often no icing or offside in ball hockey.
No prob (I think you're talking about my post, if not, then sorry I couldn't help ya!). Re-reading my post I'd like to also add that though you get no real benefit from wood, often times they can end up being far cheaper. Place near me has $10 wood blades. Wouldn't spend $20 on a wood blade for ball hockey though. Good graphite blade will last a year or so on a smooth surface (unless you play every day or take slap shots exclusively). I had a graphite blade last me about a year playing 3-4 times a week on smooth asphalt and tennis courts. Cost me $30 bucks. That same year my friend went through about 3-4 wood blades at probably $15 a piece (shop didn't have the $10 blades back then).
Be careful not to get a foam core blade though. Those get beat up massively on any ball hockey surface. Save those for the ice!
1) Take a lot of shots, rebounds happen more often than not.
2) As someone else mentioned, always be in good positioning for your teammate so they have more options.
3) I wouldn't always recommend dump and chase, personally I think it all depends on the speed and endurance of the team you are playing. If you are playing an old and sluggish team, then you should dump and chase. If you are playing a fast and young team (Like mine), your better off entering the zone and making smart passes because most likely they will get to the ball first if you dump it.
Can you recommend any books or specific websites to read up on general positioning/strategy? I've picked up on some just as a result of experience playing these past few months, but I'd love to find something that really gets into detail.
Can you recommend any books or specific websites to read up on general positioning/strategy? I've picked up on some just as a result of experience playing these past few months, but I'd love to find something that really gets into detail.
Thanks for all of your input. I've gone through about 3 wood blades so far, and had one ABS blade stepped on and broken.
I was always worried that graphite would be easily torn up on any surface other than ice, but it sounds like that's not that case. Can you recommend any specific graphite blades? I actually love the wood Paul Coffey Sher-Wood blade, but it just doesn't hold up to abuse.
He's playing in a league, which means icing and offsides do apply. Also, if you are playing indoors (gym floor, concrete ice pad, the annoying sport dek stuff) you don't have to worry about bouncing passes. If the ball skips it's more the fault of the passer not the mechanics of the game. My team whips cross court passes around like a puck on ice all the time.